From Dr. Jean Dodd...
Dr. Jean Dodds' Recommended Vaccination Schedule
Vaccine Initial 1st Annual Booster Re-Administration Interval Comments
Distemper (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only
None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 / 15 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Can have numerous side effects if given too young (< 8 weeks).
Parvovirus (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Rabies
(killed) 24 weeks or older At 1 year (give 3-4 weeks apart from Dist/Parvo booster) Killed 3 year rabies vaccine 3 yr. vaccine given as required by law in California (follow your state/provincial requirements) rabid animals may infect dogs.
Vaccines Not Recommended For Dogs
Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger Not recommended.
At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Corona Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 weeks of age.
2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
Leptospirosis Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
Lyme Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
Boretella
(Intranasal)
(killed) Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
Duration of immunity 6 months.
Giardia Not recommended
Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies
There are two types of vaccines currently available to veterinarians: modified-live vaccines and inactivated ("killed") vaccines.
Immunization Schedules
There is a great deal of controversy and confusion surrounding the appropriate immunization schedule, especially with the availability of modified-live vaccines and breeders who have experienced postvaccinal problems when using some of these vaccines. It is also important to not begin a vaccination program while maternal antibodies are still active and present in the puppy from the mother's colostrum. The maternal antibodies identify the vaccines as infectious organisms and destroy them before they can stimulate an immune response.
Many breeders and owners have sought a safer immunization program.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)
Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)
Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310/ 828-4804
fax: 310/ 828-8251
Note: This schedule is the one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It's a matter of professional judgment and choice. For breeds or families of dogs susceptible to or affected with immune dysfunction, immune-mediated disease, immune-reactions associated with vaccinations, or autoimmune endocrine disease (e.g., thyroiditis, Addison's or Cushing's disease, diabetes, etc.) the above protocol is recommended.
After 1 year, annually measure serum antibody titers against specific canine infectious agents such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially recommended for animals previously experiencing adverse vaccine reactions or breeds at higher risk for such reactions (e.g., Weimaraner, Akita, American Eskimo, Great Dane).
Another alternative to booster vaccinations is homeopathic nosodes. This option is considered an unconventional treatment that has not been scientifically proven to be efficacious. One controlled parvovirus nosode study did not adequately protect puppies under challenged conditions. However, data from Europe and clinical experience in North America support its use. If veterinarians choose to use homeopathic nosodes, their clients should be provided with an appropriate disclaimer and written informed consent should be obtained.
I use only killed 3 year rabies vaccine for adults and give it separated from other vaccines by 3-4 weeks. In some states, they may be able to give titer test result in lieu of booster.
I do NOT use Bordetella, corona virus, leptospirosis or Lyme vaccines unless these diseases are endemic in the local area pr specific kennel. Furthermore, the currently licensed leptospira bacterins do not contain the serovars causing the majority of clinical leptospirosis today.
I do NOT recommend vaccinating bitches during estrus, pregnancy or lactation.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Thursday, October 02, 2008
The "Swissy Lick"
This is from Cathy Cooper's website http://www.shadetreegreaterswiss.com/....
The "Swissy Lick"
This is an entirely unscientific term to describe the sudden onset of frantic licking of anything in range such as carpet, bare floor, walls etc. and the indiscriminate eating of anything that can be swallowed such as grass, leaves, fiber from carpets etc. and gobbling up of air. It is obvious that the behavior is due to severe gastrointestinal discomfort. It sometimes can be alleviated with medications such as Digel, Gas-X or other gas and acid reducing remedies. Often, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting will help. What exactly causes the "Swissy Lick" is a matter of discussion among Swissy owners but there seems to be no single or definite factor responsible for this condition. Any number of theories have been offered, from exessive gas pressure to acid reflux to allergic reaction to a food substance. Some believe that it is a precursor to GDV but this cannot be clearly substantiated either as many Swissys who have had these licking episodes never went on to develop GDV. While the condition appears to affect primarily young dogs, it has also been reported in older Swissys. Often, young dogs eventually will outgrow the condition.
The "Swissy Lick"
This is an entirely unscientific term to describe the sudden onset of frantic licking of anything in range such as carpet, bare floor, walls etc. and the indiscriminate eating of anything that can be swallowed such as grass, leaves, fiber from carpets etc. and gobbling up of air. It is obvious that the behavior is due to severe gastrointestinal discomfort. It sometimes can be alleviated with medications such as Digel, Gas-X or other gas and acid reducing remedies. Often, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting will help. What exactly causes the "Swissy Lick" is a matter of discussion among Swissy owners but there seems to be no single or definite factor responsible for this condition. Any number of theories have been offered, from exessive gas pressure to acid reflux to allergic reaction to a food substance. Some believe that it is a precursor to GDV but this cannot be clearly substantiated either as many Swissys who have had these licking episodes never went on to develop GDV. While the condition appears to affect primarily young dogs, it has also been reported in older Swissys. Often, young dogs eventually will outgrow the condition.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Mastitis also
Antibiotics for mom........
probiocin immediately for mom and pups (as the antibiotics will cause diarrhea for pups)
Lots of warm compresses......as hot as you can stand it.
Tape the nipple off so pups can't nurse on it (unlike human breastfeeding where they want us to pump to extract the infection and throw away the milk......or even let child nurse through the excruciatingly painful infection).
probiocin immediately for mom and pups (as the antibiotics will cause diarrhea for pups)
Lots of warm compresses......as hot as you can stand it.
Tape the nipple off so pups can't nurse on it (unlike human breastfeeding where they want us to pump to extract the infection and throw away the milk......or even let child nurse through the excruciatingly painful infection).
Mastitis
From Dan Campeau...
When you milk it out,,, if it still looks white I would continue to let largest pup milk it out every 4 hours to make sure you are releasing pressure and it will usually work itself out.
If the milk looks yellow or green or has blood in it then I would get a breast pump, milk the teat out several (4-5) times per day, put your bitch on amoxycilline for 2 weeks and tape it so pups cannot nurse from it. While bitch is on antibiotics I give pups 1-2 cc of vanilla yogurt everyday so they do not loose their beneficial gut bacteria.
*** When the milk goes back to white with no signs of blood then I would put bigger pups on it to to keep it milked out.
I usually feel the bitches underline every 4-6 hours when I bring mom back in from being outside to exercise,,, and if one teat starts feeling hard or hot I get the biggest pups to milk it out for next couple of feeding cycles and it usually will clear up on its own.
When you milk it out,,, if it still looks white I would continue to let largest pup milk it out every 4 hours to make sure you are releasing pressure and it will usually work itself out.
If the milk looks yellow or green or has blood in it then I would get a breast pump, milk the teat out several (4-5) times per day, put your bitch on amoxycilline for 2 weeks and tape it so pups cannot nurse from it. While bitch is on antibiotics I give pups 1-2 cc of vanilla yogurt everyday so they do not loose their beneficial gut bacteria.
*** When the milk goes back to white with no signs of blood then I would put bigger pups on it to to keep it milked out.
I usually feel the bitches underline every 4-6 hours when I bring mom back in from being outside to exercise,,, and if one teat starts feeling hard or hot I get the biggest pups to milk it out for next couple of feeding cycles and it usually will clear up on its own.
UTIs in Swissy Girls
From Pamela Kalupa
Our first Swissy bitch have bladder infections/uti's. She was on a regimen of antibiotics (amoxi, cephalexin, clavamox, and finally primor). Her uti's consisted of a lot of blood. We even did a cytocentesis. Which showed e-coli.
I'll bet that's what they're see if they send it out for a culture, if they did the cytocentesis. I've had pups (girls) that I placed, that had uti's as they were older. Our recommendation that was given by one of our vets that worked at my clinic was cranberry extract 325 mg. and wiping the vulva everytime she urinated with unscented/non alcohol baby wipes. Instead of cranberry extract, I like Solid Gold Berry Balance. Needless to say, it's a pain the butt. It did work. We also did this until she came into her first heat and haven't had a problem since and she'll be 8 yrs. old in October.
The other choice would be to find the bacteria. Give the antibiotic (remember certain ones sh ould NOT be given to growing pups). Add the cranberries/extract , o r something on that order. Do the baby wipes. And possibly continue on a low grade antibiotic (amoxicillin) until she comes into season which we have done with one of our pups with no ill side affects.
If it's just leaking urine, but no bladder infections -- HomeoPet "Leaks No More" has worked on one of our other bitches who would just run through the house urinating when she was pup. She came into season and was fine. Hasn't leaked yet.
Pam
On Sep 8, 2008, at 9:04 PM, Susan McClintick wrote:
I have a puppy owner that has a female puppy that is having a re-occurring UTI.
She told me that she had her potty trained for the most part and then notice she was dribbling while walking and licking herself. She took her to the vet, they gave her Clavamox for 10 days. Toward the end of the treatment she seemed better and was again not having any accidents in the house. Three days after the antibiotics was completed she started dribbling again. This time they did a clean sample and told her the infection was only in the bladder and gave her 3 weeks worth of Clavamox. Again she seemed well with the treatment and stopped dribbling. Three days after the antibiotics she started licking again and started to dribble. She did say she also threw up that day. It was just dog food, but has no t gotten sick again and seems to otherwise act normal. Today is the 5th day after the last treatment.
She is taking her back to the vet. I told her to ask if they did a culture to find out what was causing the infection. What kind of bacteria is it? I also told her to ask about maybe it being a kidney infection and possibly changing the antibiotic to something stronger incase the bacteria is resistant to the Clavamox.
Any suggestions? I've never had a bitch with a UTI so this is unknown territory to me. The puppy turned 5 months old on the 3rd of September. None of the other females in this litter seem to be having any issues of this sort.
Our first Swissy bitch have bladder infections/uti's. She was on a regimen of antibiotics (amoxi, cephalexin, clavamox, and finally primor). Her uti's consisted of a lot of blood. We even did a cytocentesis. Which showed e-coli.
I'll bet that's what they're see if they send it out for a culture, if they did the cytocentesis. I've had pups (girls) that I placed, that had uti's as they were older. Our recommendation that was given by one of our vets that worked at my clinic was cranberry extract 325 mg. and wiping the vulva everytime she urinated with unscented/non alcohol baby wipes. Instead of cranberry extract, I like Solid Gold Berry Balance. Needless to say, it's a pain the butt. It did work. We also did this until she came into her first heat and haven't had a problem since and she'll be 8 yrs. old in October.
The other choice would be to find the bacteria. Give the antibiotic (remember certain ones sh ould NOT be given to growing pups). Add the cranberries/extract , o r something on that order. Do the baby wipes. And possibly continue on a low grade antibiotic (amoxicillin) until she comes into season which we have done with one of our pups with no ill side affects.
If it's just leaking urine, but no bladder infections -- HomeoPet "Leaks No More" has worked on one of our other bitches who would just run through the house urinating when she was pup. She came into season and was fine. Hasn't leaked yet.
Pam
On Sep 8, 2008, at 9:04 PM, Susan McClintick wrote:
I have a puppy owner that has a female puppy that is having a re-occurring UTI.
She told me that she had her potty trained for the most part and then notice she was dribbling while walking and licking herself. She took her to the vet, they gave her Clavamox for 10 days. Toward the end of the treatment she seemed better and was again not having any accidents in the house. Three days after the antibiotics was completed she started dribbling again. This time they did a clean sample and told her the infection was only in the bladder and gave her 3 weeks worth of Clavamox. Again she seemed well with the treatment and stopped dribbling. Three days after the antibiotics she started licking again and started to dribble. She did say she also threw up that day. It was just dog food, but has no t gotten sick again and seems to otherwise act normal. Today is the 5th day after the last treatment.
She is taking her back to the vet. I told her to ask if they did a culture to find out what was causing the infection. What kind of bacteria is it? I also told her to ask about maybe it being a kidney infection and possibly changing the antibiotic to something stronger incase the bacteria is resistant to the Clavamox.
Any suggestions? I've never had a bitch with a UTI so this is unknown territory to me. The puppy turned 5 months old on the 3rd of September. None of the other females in this litter seem to be having any issues of this sort.
About Pano in Young Swissys
From Sharyl Mayhew...
In this order: 1. Cage rest, 2. LEASH WALK ONLY and 3. minimal use of pain relievers. Rimadyl is your best bet because unlike previcox and derramax and some of the others it helps keep the joint fluid constant better than the rest. Please don't use bute in a young growing dog.
Use the NSAID to make them comfortable, NOT to make them sound for competition or play. Cage rest, Rimadyl, leash walk only. Repeat again and again and no dog classes, no shows, no playing with the neighbor's dog. Cage rest, rimadyl, leash walk only maybe for a month or so!!!
Pano is a growing dog problem, keep them still, feed them light and let them grow out of it. The ortho specialists lately (last 10 years or so) suggest feeding a low protein/fat food such as....get this... PEDIGREE:) Go figure. Get her off of puppy or any high-end diet immediately, feed reduced portions and keep her a lean as possible until she's past this. Pedigree regular, not puppy or lamb or any other variety, just the plain jane, Costco yellow bag.
Cage rest, leash walking only and strongly Consider Adequan injections to protect the growing joints while the dog is intermittently lame. Adequan equine only (has no preservatives-the canine version does and can cause reactions in some dogs). Call Dr. Jackson 703-385-1054 and he can talk to another vet for them. We give Adequan 2cc IM every 4 days for 8 injections and sometimes monthly boosters of it thereafter until the dog is out of the age frame for pano.
****This does not help with pano in any way***. BUT, it does absolutely protect and strengthen the actual synovial joints (i.e. ball and socket joints like hip, elbow, shoulder, hocks, jaw etc.) so that the intermittant limping doesn't cause permanent damage in a young, growing, goofy, crash and burn, giant breed dog.
Bicepital tendinitis is also common in large/giant breeds, all of the above will help with that too. The most important course of treatment is CAGE REST, LEASH WALK ONLY and let them heal. No packing, no carting, no showing, no training. Work instead on quiet activities, kong chewing olympics, "quiet" time in the crate or on a leash, calm behavior on command and don't try to get back into competition too soon, the shows will still be there for her when she's sound and painfree and more mature and more competitive.
Sharyl
In this order: 1. Cage rest, 2. LEASH WALK ONLY and 3. minimal use of pain relievers. Rimadyl is your best bet because unlike previcox and derramax and some of the others it helps keep the joint fluid constant better than the rest. Please don't use bute in a young growing dog.
Use the NSAID to make them comfortable, NOT to make them sound for competition or play. Cage rest, Rimadyl, leash walk only. Repeat again and again and no dog classes, no shows, no playing with the neighbor's dog. Cage rest, rimadyl, leash walk only maybe for a month or so!!!
Pano is a growing dog problem, keep them still, feed them light and let them grow out of it. The ortho specialists lately (last 10 years or so) suggest feeding a low protein/fat food such as....get this... PEDIGREE:) Go figure. Get her off of puppy or any high-end diet immediately, feed reduced portions and keep her a lean as possible until she's past this. Pedigree regular, not puppy or lamb or any other variety, just the plain jane, Costco yellow bag.
Cage rest, leash walking only and strongly Consider Adequan injections to protect the growing joints while the dog is intermittently lame. Adequan equine only (has no preservatives-the canine version does and can cause reactions in some dogs). Call Dr. Jackson 703-385-1054 and he can talk to another vet for them. We give Adequan 2cc IM every 4 days for 8 injections and sometimes monthly boosters of it thereafter until the dog is out of the age frame for pano.
****This does not help with pano in any way***. BUT, it does absolutely protect and strengthen the actual synovial joints (i.e. ball and socket joints like hip, elbow, shoulder, hocks, jaw etc.) so that the intermittant limping doesn't cause permanent damage in a young, growing, goofy, crash and burn, giant breed dog.
Bicepital tendinitis is also common in large/giant breeds, all of the above will help with that too. The most important course of treatment is CAGE REST, LEASH WALK ONLY and let them heal. No packing, no carting, no showing, no training. Work instead on quiet activities, kong chewing olympics, "quiet" time in the crate or on a leash, calm behavior on command and don't try to get back into competition too soon, the shows will still be there for her when she's sound and painfree and more mature and more competitive.
Sharyl
Leaking Pups
From Dan Campeau...
When I have a leaking pup, First thing I rule out is a Bladder or Kidney infection. If yes, then treat with Antibiotics and then follow up with Dried Cranberry leaf extract to stop recuring infections. Once infection is gone, leaking usually stops.
_______________________
If it is NOT an infection, I assume it is a hormonal issue that will resolve itself when the bitch goes through her first heat cycle. I have never had a pup that did not get better on their own when they went through first heat cycle.
The only thing I would do as a prophlactic measure on a bitch that shows negative on an infection is to give her Cranberry leaf extract so they do not develop an infection.
I do not treat these girls with any other drugs or supplements,,, I just manage the issue judisciously and know that it is a temporary condition. Put pup in an area that is easily cleaned, wash more blankets, keep them outside during the day if possible.
__________________________________________
I NEVER spay my girls before their first heat cycle , If you spay a swissy pup that is NOT leaking presently, they will start as you throw their systems into a state of instant menopause.
In most cases of girls that do NOT have a history of leaking, you will avoid many leaking issues if you wait until your girl has gone through at least one heat cycle.
Most of the leaking issues not attributed to infections are hormonal in nature and will get better with age and going through at least ONE heat cycle.
I recently had a leaking pup that I did a surgery on that is common in humans but not common in dogs and that was a hysterectomy only taking out the Uterus. I left the ovaries in so she would not have to be on replacement hormone therapy or major drugs to control leaking the rest of her life. I will continue to monitor her and let you know how it goes. She is making a wonderful pet and companion and is NOT leaking now.
When I have a leaking pup, First thing I rule out is a Bladder or Kidney infection. If yes, then treat with Antibiotics and then follow up with Dried Cranberry leaf extract to stop recuring infections. Once infection is gone, leaking usually stops.
_______________________
If it is NOT an infection, I assume it is a hormonal issue that will resolve itself when the bitch goes through her first heat cycle. I have never had a pup that did not get better on their own when they went through first heat cycle.
The only thing I would do as a prophlactic measure on a bitch that shows negative on an infection is to give her Cranberry leaf extract so they do not develop an infection.
I do not treat these girls with any other drugs or supplements,,, I just manage the issue judisciously and know that it is a temporary condition. Put pup in an area that is easily cleaned, wash more blankets, keep them outside during the day if possible.
__________________________________________
I NEVER spay my girls before their first heat cycle , If you spay a swissy pup that is NOT leaking presently, they will start as you throw their systems into a state of instant menopause.
In most cases of girls that do NOT have a history of leaking, you will avoid many leaking issues if you wait until your girl has gone through at least one heat cycle.
Most of the leaking issues not attributed to infections are hormonal in nature and will get better with age and going through at least ONE heat cycle.
I recently had a leaking pup that I did a surgery on that is common in humans but not common in dogs and that was a hysterectomy only taking out the Uterus. I left the ovaries in so she would not have to be on replacement hormone therapy or major drugs to control leaking the rest of her life. I will continue to monitor her and let you know how it goes. She is making a wonderful pet and companion and is NOT leaking now.
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