Written by:
Laurinda Morris, DVM
Danville Veterinary Clinic
Danville , OH
This week I had the first case in history of raisin toxicity ever seen at MedVet.
My patient was a 56-pound, 5 yr old male neutered lab mix that ate half a canister of raisins sometime between 7:30 AM and 4:30 PM on Tuesday. He started with vomiting, diarrhea and shaking about 1 AM on Wednesday but the owner didn't call my emergency service until 7 AM.. I had heard somewhere about raisins AND grapes causing acute Renal failure but hadn't seen any formal paper on the subject. We had her bring the dog in immediately. In the meantime, I called the ER service at MedVet, and the doctor there was like me - had heard something about it, but... Anyway, we contacted the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center and they said to give IV fluids at 1 & 1/2 times maintenance and watch the kidney values for the next 48-72 hours. The dog's BUN (blood urea nitrogen level) was already at 32 (normal less than 27) and creatinine over 5 (1.9 is the high end of normal). Both are monitors of kidney function in the bloodstream. We placed an IV catheter and started the fluids. Rechecked the renal values at 5 PM and the BUN was over 40 and creatinine over 7 with no urine production after a liter of fluids. At that point I felt the dog was in acute renal failure and sent him on to MedVet for a urinary catheter to monitor urine output overnight as well as overnight care. He started vomiting again overnight at MedVet and his renal values continued to increase daily. He produced urine when given lasix as a diuretic. He was on 3 different anti-vomiting medications and they still couldn't control hisvomiting. Today his urine output decreased again, his BUN was over 120, his creatinine was at 10, his phosphorus was very elevated and his blood pressure, which had been staying around 150, skyrocketed to 220 ... He continued to vomit and the owners elected to Euthanize.
This is a very sad case - great dog, great owners who had no idea raisins could be a toxin. Please alert everyone you know who has a dog of this very serious risk. Poison control said as few as 7 raisins or grapes could be toxic. Many people I know give their dogs grapes or raisins as treats including our ex-handler's. Any exposure should give rise to immediate concern..
Onions, chocolate, cocoa, avocadoes and macadamia nuts can be fatal, too.
Even if you don't have a dog, you might have friends who do. This is worth passing on to them.
Confirmation from Snopes about the above ....
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/raisins.asp
Saturday, December 05, 2009
Friday, December 04, 2009
Sharyl Mayhew on Rehabilitating an Untrusting Swissy
This is an email conversation between Sharyl Mayhew and a Swissy owner caring for another family's Swissy.... There is lot of wisdom in the post.
____________________
How old is Charlie now and is he neutered yet and when was that done if so?
Okay, first without seeing him, sounds like a normal adolescent male Swissy in a novice home. Most of the crap people try to "prevent" aggression almost always feeds it. Such as kids playing in the food bowl, etc. Also, lately we keep seeing more and more people attempting Cesar Millan type techniques on dogs when they have no business doing anything that he does with normal pet dogs. Mark my words we will see MANY more surrendered Swissies in the days to come because of these methods being "mainstreamed" right into the homes of novice owners. He has set dog training back 25 years. Try to get the idea of "dominant" humans out of your mind and vocabulary. -- We are a dominant species, we have opposable thumbs and "usually" greater intelligence, however we will never be dogs or wolves and the dogs know that and all it takes is one person to back the hell up when a growl or bite is thrown to teach a dog that "might equals right" and you can scare people off with displays of aggression. Instead of stopping aggression, we create and nurture it by trying to "dominate" dogs physically. Please see...
http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance%20statement.pdf
The best thing you described about Charlie is that he is still warning, i.e. has growls, bares his teeth and lunges without making contact. Usually by the time I am called they have had the warnings slapped or "whispered" out of them and are very very dangerous.
Okay, that said...Sounds like Julie has some sense, but is moving too fast. Remember, the first people had months to screw up this dog, it will likely take months to unscrew him. Before I can meet up with her, please pass on to her the importance of keeping this dog's anxiety low. He should be loved, fed, sheltered and little else. He should have NO outings or time spent with visitors whatsoever, he needs to ratchet down from what has probably been a whirlwind existence between a nervous permissive home, your transient environment with multiple employees and maybe even multiple techniques to handle him and now her home with too much stimuli too soon. He can and should be walked on leash but not at times she's likely to run into passersby with him.
He needs to focus on her and her husband and rebuild trust that THEY will take care of scary situations. He should not be put into a position to "practice" the ugly behaviors he has learned. Sometimes I have dogs here for weeks before they ever see anyone other than me or my husband and then only for food and exercise. We do not push them or try to get a reaction from them, we just care for them while they calm down and start to trust again. Since he seems good with other dogs, that is a HUGE bonus. Other trusting, calm and cooperative dogs will help him understand that he doesn't need to react to everything. Use that bonus.
Colleen may have told you about Jake and Mac that are here. Mac is a perfectly normal dog who resource guarded in his first home. To me resource guarding is the easiest problem to overcome if you can get the whole family to do it, sadly people with kids usually won't or say they can't, whatever. The trick is the dog owns nothing, so there is nothing to guard, but people with kids seem to always have food or whatever all over the freaking place, so the method to stop the problem is impossible with them.
Anyway, Mac is rock solid and wonderful with people if he has nothing to guard. So when Jake got here, he was so freakin scary Colleen and I unloaded him fully crated from the airport and placed crate, with dog in it, in a kennel at the clinic -- both of us 20plus year dog veterans were too scared to open that cage. The next morning, dog was still scary but more cooperative with an empty belly and a full bladder. Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I walked him and I fed him and THAT'S IT. He got NO response to his growls and kennel lunging, we ignored him. Once he stopped being an ass, I took him home and introduced him muzzled to his half-brother and they played like puppies. I took the muzzle off in less than 2 minutes and Mac has since taught Jake how to live again without fear and without the need for aggressive displays to get rid scary things. Fewer things scare him now because he has Mac and my other dogs to read for signals and because we don't put him in scary situations.
He had knee surgery this summer and was handled by more than 15 different people, he was occasionally in pain and/or uncomfortable, was restrained and x-rayed and bandaged and had Laser and Magnet therapy several times and he was completely trusting and normal, but it took over a year to get him to this point.
Just remind her that time is her best friend with a Swissy rehab. And I will meet with her as soon as possible to see him first hand and give her any help I can.
Sharyl
____________________
How old is Charlie now and is he neutered yet and when was that done if so?
Okay, first without seeing him, sounds like a normal adolescent male Swissy in a novice home. Most of the crap people try to "prevent" aggression almost always feeds it. Such as kids playing in the food bowl, etc. Also, lately we keep seeing more and more people attempting Cesar Millan type techniques on dogs when they have no business doing anything that he does with normal pet dogs. Mark my words we will see MANY more surrendered Swissies in the days to come because of these methods being "mainstreamed" right into the homes of novice owners. He has set dog training back 25 years. Try to get the idea of "dominant" humans out of your mind and vocabulary. -- We are a dominant species, we have opposable thumbs and "usually" greater intelligence, however we will never be dogs or wolves and the dogs know that and all it takes is one person to back the hell up when a growl or bite is thrown to teach a dog that "might equals right" and you can scare people off with displays of aggression. Instead of stopping aggression, we create and nurture it by trying to "dominate" dogs physically. Please see...
http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance%20statement.pdf
The best thing you described about Charlie is that he is still warning, i.e. has growls, bares his teeth and lunges without making contact. Usually by the time I am called they have had the warnings slapped or "whispered" out of them and are very very dangerous.
Okay, that said...Sounds like Julie has some sense, but is moving too fast. Remember, the first people had months to screw up this dog, it will likely take months to unscrew him. Before I can meet up with her, please pass on to her the importance of keeping this dog's anxiety low. He should be loved, fed, sheltered and little else. He should have NO outings or time spent with visitors whatsoever, he needs to ratchet down from what has probably been a whirlwind existence between a nervous permissive home, your transient environment with multiple employees and maybe even multiple techniques to handle him and now her home with too much stimuli too soon. He can and should be walked on leash but not at times she's likely to run into passersby with him.
He needs to focus on her and her husband and rebuild trust that THEY will take care of scary situations. He should not be put into a position to "practice" the ugly behaviors he has learned. Sometimes I have dogs here for weeks before they ever see anyone other than me or my husband and then only for food and exercise. We do not push them or try to get a reaction from them, we just care for them while they calm down and start to trust again. Since he seems good with other dogs, that is a HUGE bonus. Other trusting, calm and cooperative dogs will help him understand that he doesn't need to react to everything. Use that bonus.
Colleen may have told you about Jake and Mac that are here. Mac is a perfectly normal dog who resource guarded in his first home. To me resource guarding is the easiest problem to overcome if you can get the whole family to do it, sadly people with kids usually won't or say they can't, whatever. The trick is the dog owns nothing, so there is nothing to guard, but people with kids seem to always have food or whatever all over the freaking place, so the method to stop the problem is impossible with them.
Anyway, Mac is rock solid and wonderful with people if he has nothing to guard. So when Jake got here, he was so freakin scary Colleen and I unloaded him fully crated from the airport and placed crate, with dog in it, in a kennel at the clinic -- both of us 20plus year dog veterans were too scared to open that cage. The next morning, dog was still scary but more cooperative with an empty belly and a full bladder. Over the course of 3 or 4 days, I walked him and I fed him and THAT'S IT. He got NO response to his growls and kennel lunging, we ignored him. Once he stopped being an ass, I took him home and introduced him muzzled to his half-brother and they played like puppies. I took the muzzle off in less than 2 minutes and Mac has since taught Jake how to live again without fear and without the need for aggressive displays to get rid scary things. Fewer things scare him now because he has Mac and my other dogs to read for signals and because we don't put him in scary situations.
He had knee surgery this summer and was handled by more than 15 different people, he was occasionally in pain and/or uncomfortable, was restrained and x-rayed and bandaged and had Laser and Magnet therapy several times and he was completely trusting and normal, but it took over a year to get him to this point.
Just remind her that time is her best friend with a Swissy rehab. And I will meet with her as soon as possible to see him first hand and give her any help I can.
Sharyl
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Puppies on the way!
Since the last litter was so outstanding, we bred Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) to Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) AGAIN! Puppies are due around October 23rd-- in time for them to go to their forever homes near Christmas! If you are interested in obtaining a puppy from me, please fill out my puppy application.
And BIG CONGRATULATIONS to Dad Stevie for his TRIPLE BEST OF BREED TITLES at the Eastern Swissy Specialty in Millwood, VA!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Recognizing Heat Stroke in Dogs
It's HOT out there! Please make sure you're aware of the signs of heatstroke in your pet.
``````````````````````````````````````
Early Stages of Heat-Stroke in Animals:
Heavy panting.
Rapid breathing
Excessive drooling.
Bright red gums and tongue.
Standing 4-square, posting or spreading out in an attempt to maintain balance.
Advanced Stages:
White or blue gums.
Lethargy, unwillingness to move.
Uncontrollable urination or defecation.
Labored, noisy breathing.
Shock.
If your dog begins to exhibit signs of heatstroke, you should immediately try to cool the dog down:
Apply rubbing alcohol to the dog's paw pads.
Apply ice packs to the groin area.
Hose down with water.
Allow the dog to lick ice chips or drink a small amount of water.
Offer Pedialyte to restore electrolytes.
Check your dog's temperature regularly during this process. Once the dog's temperature has stabilized at between 100 to 102 degrees, you can stop the cool-down process.
If you cannot get the dog cooled down and you begin to see signs of advanced heatstroke, take the dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Anne Gavin – Organizer, DC Area Cavalier Spaniel Meet-Up Group
---------------------------------------------------
``````````````````````````````````````
Early Stages of Heat-Stroke in Animals:
Heavy panting.
Rapid breathing
Excessive drooling.
Bright red gums and tongue.
Standing 4-square, posting or spreading out in an attempt to maintain balance.
Advanced Stages:
White or blue gums.
Lethargy, unwillingness to move.
Uncontrollable urination or defecation.
Labored, noisy breathing.
Shock.
If your dog begins to exhibit signs of heatstroke, you should immediately try to cool the dog down:
Apply rubbing alcohol to the dog's paw pads.
Apply ice packs to the groin area.
Hose down with water.
Allow the dog to lick ice chips or drink a small amount of water.
Offer Pedialyte to restore electrolytes.
Check your dog's temperature regularly during this process. Once the dog's temperature has stabilized at between 100 to 102 degrees, you can stop the cool-down process.
If you cannot get the dog cooled down and you begin to see signs of advanced heatstroke, take the dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Anne Gavin – Organizer, DC Area Cavalier Spaniel Meet-Up Group
---------------------------------------------------
Friday, June 05, 2009
Treating mast cell tumors
"The FDA said Palladia (toceranib phosphate) has been approved to treat canine cutaneous mast cell tumors, a type of cancer responsible for about 1 of 5 cases of canine skin tumors."Katie's first Basset Bleu de Gascogne died of mast cell carcinoma. Here is the link:
http://www.upi.com/Science_News/2009/06/03/FDA-approves-drug-to-treat-cancer-in-dogs/UPI-60081244039573/
http://www.upi.com/Science_News/2009/06/03/FDA-approves-drug-to-treat-cancer-in-dogs/UPI-60081244039573/
More on early neutering...
http://www.avma.org/onlnews/javma/may09/090515j.asp
And here is the portion he refers to:
"Although spay/neuter is an important part of effective population control programs, and may benefit individual dogs and cats if performed at the appropriate time, whether and when to spay/neuter specific animals requires the application of science and professional judgment to ensure the best outcome for veterinary patients and their owners. Prevention of unexpected litters; reduced incidences of some cancers and reproductive diseases; and prevention and amelioration of certain undesirable behaviors have been documented as benefits to spaying/neutering dogs and cats. However, potential health problems associated with spaying and neutering have also been identified, including an increased risk of prostatic cancer in males; increased risks of bone cancer and hip dysplasia in large-breed dogs associated with sterilization before maturity; and increased incidences of obesity, diabetes, urinary tract infections, urinary incontinence, and hypothyroidism."
And here is the portion he refers to:
"Although spay/neuter is an important part of effective population control programs, and may benefit individual dogs and cats if performed at the appropriate time, whether and when to spay/neuter specific animals requires the application of science and professional judgment to ensure the best outcome for veterinary patients and their owners. Prevention of unexpected litters; reduced incidences of some cancers and reproductive diseases; and prevention and amelioration of certain undesirable behaviors have been documented as benefits to spaying/neutering dogs and cats. However, potential health problems associated with spaying and neutering have also been identified, including an increased risk of prostatic cancer in males; increased risks of bone cancer and hip dysplasia in large-breed dogs associated with sterilization before maturity; and increased incidences of obesity, diabetes, urinary tract infections, urinary incontinence, and hypothyroidism."
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Effects of Early Neutering
This is an excellent article from http://www.caninesports.com/
````````````````````````````````````
Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete by Chris Zink, DVM, PhD
Neuter or not?
Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and owners working with canine athletes should revisit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.
Orthopedic Considerations
A study by Salmeri et al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, who were taller than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).(1) A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers performed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.(2) The sex hormones, by communicating with a number of other growth-related hormones, promote the closure of the growth plates at puberty (3), so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle likely becomes heavier (because it is longer), and may cause increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. In addition, sex hormones are critical for achieving peak bone density.(4) These structural and physiological alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study showed that spayed and neutered dogs had a higher incidence of CCL rupture.(5) Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age, although it should be noted that in this study there were no standard criteria for the diagnosis of hip dysplasia.(6) Nonetheless, breeders of purebred dogs should be cognizant of these studies and should consider whether or not pups they bred were spayed or neutered when considering breeding decisions.
Cancer Considerations
A retrospective study of cardiac tumors in dogs showed that there was a 5 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, one of the three most common cancers in dogs, in spayed bitches than intact bitches and a 2.4 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma in neutered dogs as compared to intact males.(7) A study of 3218 dogs demonstrated that dogs that were neutered before a year of age had a significantly increased chance of developing bone cancer.(8) A separate study showed that neutered dogs had a two-fold higher risk of developing bone cancer.(9) Despite the common belief that neutering dogs helps prevent prostate cancer, at least one study suggests that neutering provides no benefit.(10) There certainly is evidence of a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle, and for increased risk with each subsequent heat. While about 30 % of mammary cancers are malignant, as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good.(12) Luckily, canine athletes are handled frequently and generally receive prompt veterinary care.
Behavioral Considerations
The study that identified a higher incidence of cranial cruciate ligament rupture in spayed or neutered dogs also identified an increased incidence of sexual behaviors in males and females that were neutered early.(5) Further, the study that identified a higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs neutered or spayed before 5 1/2 months also showed that early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors.(6) A recent report of the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation reported significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs. The most commonly observed behavioral problem in spayed females was fearful behavior and the most common problem in males was aggression.(12)
Other Health Considerations
A number of studies have shown that there is an increase in the incidence of female urinary incontinence in dogs spayed early (13), although this finding has not been universal. Certainly there is evidence that ovarian hormones are critical for maintenance of genital tissue structure and contractility.(14, 15) Neutering also has been associated with an increased likelihood of urethral sphincter incontinence in males.(16) This problem is an inconvenience, and not usually life-threatening, but nonetheless one that requires the dog to be medicated for life. A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.(2) This study is consistent with the results of another study in which neutering and spaying was determined to be the most significant gender-associated risk factor for development of hypothyroidism.(17) Infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were spayed or neutered at 24 weeks or less as opposed to those undergoing gonadectomy at more than 24 weeks.(18) Finally, the AKC-CHF report demonstrated a higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in neutered dogs as compared to intact.(12)
To spay or not to spay
I have gathered these studies to show that our practice of routinely spaying or neutering every dog at or before the age of 6 months is not a black-and-white issue. Clearly more studies need to be done to evaluate the effects of prepubertal spaying and neutering, particularly in canine athletes.
Currently, I have significant concerns with spaying or neutering canine athletes before puberty. But of course, there is the pet overpopulation problem. How can we prevent the production of unwanted dogs while still leaving the gonads to produce the hormones that are so important to canine growth and development? One answer would be to perform vasectomies in males and tubal ligation in females, to be followed after maturity by ovariohysterectomy in females to prevent mammary cancer and pyometra. One possible disadvantage is that vasectomy does not prevent some unwanted behaviors associated with males such as marking and humping. On the other hand, females and neutered males frequently participate in these behaviors too. Really, training is the best solution for these issues. Another possible disadvantage is finding a veterinarian who is experienced in performing these procedures. Nonetheless, some do, and if the procedures were in greater demand, more veterinarians would learn them.
I believe it is important that we assess each situation individually. For canine athletes, I currently recommend that dogs and bitches be spayed or neutered after 14 months of age.
References:
1. Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.. Gonadectomy in immature dogs: effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral development. JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203
2. http://www.grca.org/healthsurvey.pdf
3. Grumbach MM. Estrogen, bone, growth and sex: a sea change in conventional wisdom. J Pediatr Endocrinol Metab. 2000;13 Suppl 6:1439-55.
4. Gilsanz V, Roe TF, Gibbens DT, Schulz EE, Carlson ME, Gonzalez O, Boechat MI. Effect of sex steroids on peak bone density of growing rabbits. Am J Physiol. 1988 Oct;255(4 Pt 1):E416-21.
5. Slauterbeck JR, Pankratz K, Xu KT, Bozeman SC, Hardy DM. Canine ovariohysterectomy and orchiectomy increases the prevalence of ACL injury. Clin Orthop Relat Res. 2004 Dec;(429):301-5.
6. Spain CV, Scarlett JM, Houpt KA. Long-term risks and benefits of early-age gonadectomy in dogs. JAVMA 2004;224:380-387.
7. Ware WA, Hopper DL. Cardiac tumors in dogs: 1982-1995. J Vet Intern Med 1999 Mar-Apr;13(2):95-103
8. Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, Glickman NW, Glickman LT, Waters D, Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2002 Nov;11(11):1434-40
9. Ru G, Terracini B, Glickman LT. Host related risk factors for canine osteosarcoma. Vet J. 1998 Jul;156(1):31-9.
10. Obradovich J, Walshaw R, Goullaud E. The influence of castration on the development of prostatic carcinoma in the dog. 43 cases (1978-1985). J Vet Intern Med 1987 Oct-Dec;1(4):183-7
11. http://www.akcchf.org/pdfs/whitepapers/Biennial_National_Parent_Club_Canine_Health_Conference.pdf
12. Meuten DJ. Tumors in Domestic Animals. 4th Edn. Iowa State Press, Blackwell Publishing Company, Ames, Iowa, p. 575
13. Stocklin-Gautschi NM, Hassig M, Reichler IM, Hubler M, Arnold S. The relationship of urinary incontinence to early spaying in bitches. J. Reprod. Fertil. Suppl. 57:233-6, 2001
14. Pessina MA, Hoyt RF Jr, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Differential effects of estradiol, progesterone, and testosterone on vaginal structural integrity. Endocrinology. 2006 Jan;147(1):61-9.
15. Kim NN, Min K, Pessina MA, Munarriz R, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Effects of ovariectomy and steroid hormones on vaginal smooth muscle contractility. Int J Impot Res. 2004 Feb;16(1):43-50.
16. Aaron A, Eggleton K, Power C, Holt PE. Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence in male dogs: a retrospective analysis of 54 cases. Vet Rec. 139:542-6, 1996
17. Panciera DL. Hypothyroidism in dogs: 66 cases (1987-1992). J. Am. Vet. Med. Assoc., 204:761-7 1994
18. Howe LM, Slater MR, Boothe HW, Hobson HP, Holcom JL, Spann AC. Long-term outcome of gonadectomy performed at an early age or traditional age in dogs. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2001 Jan 15;218(2):217-21.
````````````````````````````````````
Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete by Chris Zink, DVM, PhD
Neuter or not?
Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and owners working with canine athletes should revisit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.
Orthopedic Considerations
A study by Salmeri et al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, who were taller than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).(1) A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers performed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.(2) The sex hormones, by communicating with a number of other growth-related hormones, promote the closure of the growth plates at puberty (3), so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle likely becomes heavier (because it is longer), and may cause increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. In addition, sex hormones are critical for achieving peak bone density.(4) These structural and physiological alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study showed that spayed and neutered dogs had a higher incidence of CCL rupture.(5) Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age, although it should be noted that in this study there were no standard criteria for the diagnosis of hip dysplasia.(6) Nonetheless, breeders of purebred dogs should be cognizant of these studies and should consider whether or not pups they bred were spayed or neutered when considering breeding decisions.
Cancer Considerations
A retrospective study of cardiac tumors in dogs showed that there was a 5 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, one of the three most common cancers in dogs, in spayed bitches than intact bitches and a 2.4 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma in neutered dogs as compared to intact males.(7) A study of 3218 dogs demonstrated that dogs that were neutered before a year of age had a significantly increased chance of developing bone cancer.(8) A separate study showed that neutered dogs had a two-fold higher risk of developing bone cancer.(9) Despite the common belief that neutering dogs helps prevent prostate cancer, at least one study suggests that neutering provides no benefit.(10) There certainly is evidence of a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle, and for increased risk with each subsequent heat. While about 30 % of mammary cancers are malignant, as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good.(12) Luckily, canine athletes are handled frequently and generally receive prompt veterinary care.
Behavioral Considerations
The study that identified a higher incidence of cranial cruciate ligament rupture in spayed or neutered dogs also identified an increased incidence of sexual behaviors in males and females that were neutered early.(5) Further, the study that identified a higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs neutered or spayed before 5 1/2 months also showed that early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors.(6) A recent report of the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation reported significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs. The most commonly observed behavioral problem in spayed females was fearful behavior and the most common problem in males was aggression.(12)
Other Health Considerations
A number of studies have shown that there is an increase in the incidence of female urinary incontinence in dogs spayed early (13), although this finding has not been universal. Certainly there is evidence that ovarian hormones are critical for maintenance of genital tissue structure and contractility.(14, 15) Neutering also has been associated with an increased likelihood of urethral sphincter incontinence in males.(16) This problem is an inconvenience, and not usually life-threatening, but nonetheless one that requires the dog to be medicated for life. A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.(2) This study is consistent with the results of another study in which neutering and spaying was determined to be the most significant gender-associated risk factor for development of hypothyroidism.(17) Infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were spayed or neutered at 24 weeks or less as opposed to those undergoing gonadectomy at more than 24 weeks.(18) Finally, the AKC-CHF report demonstrated a higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in neutered dogs as compared to intact.(12)
To spay or not to spay
I have gathered these studies to show that our practice of routinely spaying or neutering every dog at or before the age of 6 months is not a black-and-white issue. Clearly more studies need to be done to evaluate the effects of prepubertal spaying and neutering, particularly in canine athletes.
Currently, I have significant concerns with spaying or neutering canine athletes before puberty. But of course, there is the pet overpopulation problem. How can we prevent the production of unwanted dogs while still leaving the gonads to produce the hormones that are so important to canine growth and development? One answer would be to perform vasectomies in males and tubal ligation in females, to be followed after maturity by ovariohysterectomy in females to prevent mammary cancer and pyometra. One possible disadvantage is that vasectomy does not prevent some unwanted behaviors associated with males such as marking and humping. On the other hand, females and neutered males frequently participate in these behaviors too. Really, training is the best solution for these issues. Another possible disadvantage is finding a veterinarian who is experienced in performing these procedures. Nonetheless, some do, and if the procedures were in greater demand, more veterinarians would learn them.
I believe it is important that we assess each situation individually. For canine athletes, I currently recommend that dogs and bitches be spayed or neutered after 14 months of age.
References:
1. Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.. Gonadectomy in immature dogs: effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral development. JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203
2. http://www.grca.org/healthsurvey.pdf
3. Grumbach MM. Estrogen, bone, growth and sex: a sea change in conventional wisdom. J Pediatr Endocrinol Metab. 2000;13 Suppl 6:1439-55.
4. Gilsanz V, Roe TF, Gibbens DT, Schulz EE, Carlson ME, Gonzalez O, Boechat MI. Effect of sex steroids on peak bone density of growing rabbits. Am J Physiol. 1988 Oct;255(4 Pt 1):E416-21.
5. Slauterbeck JR, Pankratz K, Xu KT, Bozeman SC, Hardy DM. Canine ovariohysterectomy and orchiectomy increases the prevalence of ACL injury. Clin Orthop Relat Res. 2004 Dec;(429):301-5.
6. Spain CV, Scarlett JM, Houpt KA. Long-term risks and benefits of early-age gonadectomy in dogs. JAVMA 2004;224:380-387.
7. Ware WA, Hopper DL. Cardiac tumors in dogs: 1982-1995. J Vet Intern Med 1999 Mar-Apr;13(2):95-103
8. Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, Glickman NW, Glickman LT, Waters D, Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2002 Nov;11(11):1434-40
9. Ru G, Terracini B, Glickman LT. Host related risk factors for canine osteosarcoma. Vet J. 1998 Jul;156(1):31-9.
10. Obradovich J, Walshaw R, Goullaud E. The influence of castration on the development of prostatic carcinoma in the dog. 43 cases (1978-1985). J Vet Intern Med 1987 Oct-Dec;1(4):183-7
11. http://www.akcchf.org/pdfs/whitepapers/Biennial_National_Parent_Club_Canine_Health_Conference.pdf
12. Meuten DJ. Tumors in Domestic Animals. 4th Edn. Iowa State Press, Blackwell Publishing Company, Ames, Iowa, p. 575
13. Stocklin-Gautschi NM, Hassig M, Reichler IM, Hubler M, Arnold S. The relationship of urinary incontinence to early spaying in bitches. J. Reprod. Fertil. Suppl. 57:233-6, 2001
14. Pessina MA, Hoyt RF Jr, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Differential effects of estradiol, progesterone, and testosterone on vaginal structural integrity. Endocrinology. 2006 Jan;147(1):61-9.
15. Kim NN, Min K, Pessina MA, Munarriz R, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Effects of ovariectomy and steroid hormones on vaginal smooth muscle contractility. Int J Impot Res. 2004 Feb;16(1):43-50.
16. Aaron A, Eggleton K, Power C, Holt PE. Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence in male dogs: a retrospective analysis of 54 cases. Vet Rec. 139:542-6, 1996
17. Panciera DL. Hypothyroidism in dogs: 66 cases (1987-1992). J. Am. Vet. Med. Assoc., 204:761-7 1994
18. Howe LM, Slater MR, Boothe HW, Hobson HP, Holcom JL, Spann AC. Long-term outcome of gonadectomy performed at an early age or traditional age in dogs. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2001 Jan 15;218(2):217-21.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Puppies trying to "run the show"...
This is a response to an email from one of my new puppy owners re: puppies trying to "run the show"...
Enjoy,
Colleen
________________________________
This is easier to explain in a live conversation. He's basically decided to manipulate you, because he can.
They need a firm, but loving approach to raising. I wish you could watch Luna interact and play with them. She is very rough, she is not gentle in any way, and she puts their entire heads and bodies in her mouth and holds them in a vice grip until they are squealing, running, and desperately trying to get away from her because what started out as play turned very quickly into 'mommy' having complete and total control over them and took it to a level for them that was unpleasant, and she didn't let them get off the hook easily (she continued to pursue them and bat at them with her front paws, and maul them, and chase them ....all playing from her perspective.... but ultimately they got overwhelmed and decided, "this isn't fun anymore"). Once they flee, she leaves them alone, they leave her alone.
When they bark at me, I scare the crap out of them and lunge at them and bark or shout back and say "enough" or no. I basically go after them like Luna would and make their "demand" unpleasant because I give it right back to them. Here's a classic example of what Shillelagh (O'Leary) was doing to Stephanie yesterday. Stephanie crawled in her crate with her and Shillelagh was relentless about eating her hair and biting at her. The more Stephanie laughed, the more out of hand Shillelagh became. To Shillelagh, Stephanie was a littermate to chew on. To Stephanie, she couldn't get control of the puppy and make her stop. I intervened and reached in the crate, grabbed Shillelagh by her lower jaw with my right hand, while pressing my thumb nail down....HARD... on her tongue. As she backed away and pulled her head away, I kept pressing and she squealed. When she was opening her jaws and backing up to get away from me, because now the fun game became unpleasant for her, I said in a firm tone, "Leave it!". She didn't touch Stephanie again! I am not abusive with them, but I am not gentle either.
The puppies were the hardest on Alyssa, my youngest, because they would gang up on her and all maul her at the same time. I would go after them like a mad woman and they learned really fast, stay away from Alyssa! I also taught Alyssa how to establish her dominance over them, how not to run away from them and encourage the chasing, and how to "pop" them if they started jumping up on her. Don't misunderstand discipline as abuse, it's not. Those of you that have owned dogs and large animals know what I'm talking about. It's about establishing under no uncertain terms, that you (and all humans for that matter) are the ALPHA over the dog, at ALL times! Nothing is for free. Start using their meals as training opportunities. I had a trainer once recommend the entire meal to be fed through training spurts throughout the day. She also taught me how to teach my dogs that NOTHING is free. They must earn their right to everything in their lives, and you are the resource! They need you to survive.
George (O'Manny) used to love barking at me when I was reprimanding an overzealous puppy that was jumping up on me. If I was disciplining his littermate, he'd bark and bark and bark. I'd finish the discipline, then run after George and grab him by the scruff of the neck and roll him over sideways until he yelped and relented and thought to himself, "why did she do that to me, that wasn't cool?". They learn quickly to do what is pleasant and to do what I expect, because if they don't, I'll turn into Luna and do unpleasant things to them!
Lets take nail dremmeling for example. They don't like it! They squirm, squeal, bite at my hand, bite at the dremmel, anything they thing they can do to get away from the undesired task. The more they bite, squirm, or squeal, the firmer my grip gets. They'll even pee on themselves and me. Because I'm always alone when I do the nails (no one to hold peanut butter to distract them), I will wrestle with them for a few minutes before they finally realize I'm not giving up. Once they relax and give in, I get the job done quicker, praise lavishly when I'm done, then they can carry on about their business. As we progress through each Sunday, they actually figure out from week to week the less they struggle, and the more cooperative they are, the faster I get the nail dremmel job done and the faster they get to go back to whatever it was they were doing. They are not dumb dogs, but they will make you feel like dumb owners.
I have 15 years of expeience and have raised so many Swissy puppies, I think I actually think like a Swissy. They are going to be testing boundaries and limits with you all. I highly recommend Karen Pryor's book on "Don't Shoot the Dog". Swissies love to please you and make you happy. They aim to please, always remember that. They'll do anything for a snack, treat, or foodl.
If they jump up a lot, which Luna does and her mother, Rixey, did......you'll have to work really hard on the sit stay. They get no love, no food, no treats, NOTHING, unless they are sitting first. When their leash is attached, you can step on it quickly so they can't jump up. DO NOT let a 100+ pound animal jump up on you. MAKE THEM SIT or DOWN first. They will learn, because they want to please you. If you establish this now, while they are little and puppies, the sit or down will become a habit. I had to "rewire" Luna from an automatic sit when greeting family or strangers, to actually commanding her to a "stand stay" when she was in the ring being judges. It was worth it to me to keep her feet "four on the floor" when she would first sit for judges on examination.
Imagine the concept of a 100 pound mother staving off 9 ravenous little puppies wanting to nurse, when she's dried up and doesn't want them to nurse. It is not a pretty scene for several minutes. The most stubborn ones keep coming back for more, and the more they come back to try and nurse, the more aggressive and firm Luna gets. She tries with just a bark warning, but then she'll actually chase away and pin down the ones that don't get her first warning....and I've seen her have them completely on their backs with their entire heads in her mouth and she won't stop until they turn into jello and just lay there, completely relaxed.....submitting, basically.
When they jump up on me, I grab their little paws and hold onto them and squeeze in between their pads. The don't like it, they pull back, then they squeal. When they realize that if they do something unpleasant to me, I'm going to return something unpleasant to them, they figure out really quickly to act and behave in socially acceptable ways.
As for the biting, I would scream bloody murder and scare the daylights out of the puppy, even though it didn't actually hurt. I like to set the precedent and tone that human skin is like butter. When they chew on each other, they know their limits by how loudly the puppy being bit screams or gives it back to them.
While they are still young and impressionable, you need to become "mom" and establish dominance over them at all times.
Shillelagh is really vocal about being in the crate while she can't see us, but she hears us. Last night, every time she started to bark or whine, I squirted her from a distance with a water bottle. She was not happy. She continued to bark, I continued to squirt. She was soaking wet, but figured out in about 10 minutes, if I bark, I get squirted, if I'm quiet, no one squirts me. The water didn't hurt her, but getting wet was unpleasant. If you return your discipline with something unpleasant to them, they figure out pretty quickly they don't want to experience unpleasant things.
Hope this helps!
Colleen
Enjoy,
Colleen
________________________________
This is easier to explain in a live conversation. He's basically decided to manipulate you, because he can.
They need a firm, but loving approach to raising. I wish you could watch Luna interact and play with them. She is very rough, she is not gentle in any way, and she puts their entire heads and bodies in her mouth and holds them in a vice grip until they are squealing, running, and desperately trying to get away from her because what started out as play turned very quickly into 'mommy' having complete and total control over them and took it to a level for them that was unpleasant, and she didn't let them get off the hook easily (she continued to pursue them and bat at them with her front paws, and maul them, and chase them ....all playing from her perspective.... but ultimately they got overwhelmed and decided, "this isn't fun anymore"). Once they flee, she leaves them alone, they leave her alone.
When they bark at me, I scare the crap out of them and lunge at them and bark or shout back and say "enough" or no. I basically go after them like Luna would and make their "demand" unpleasant because I give it right back to them. Here's a classic example of what Shillelagh (O'Leary) was doing to Stephanie yesterday. Stephanie crawled in her crate with her and Shillelagh was relentless about eating her hair and biting at her. The more Stephanie laughed, the more out of hand Shillelagh became. To Shillelagh, Stephanie was a littermate to chew on. To Stephanie, she couldn't get control of the puppy and make her stop. I intervened and reached in the crate, grabbed Shillelagh by her lower jaw with my right hand, while pressing my thumb nail down....HARD... on her tongue. As she backed away and pulled her head away, I kept pressing and she squealed. When she was opening her jaws and backing up to get away from me, because now the fun game became unpleasant for her, I said in a firm tone, "Leave it!". She didn't touch Stephanie again! I am not abusive with them, but I am not gentle either.
The puppies were the hardest on Alyssa, my youngest, because they would gang up on her and all maul her at the same time. I would go after them like a mad woman and they learned really fast, stay away from Alyssa! I also taught Alyssa how to establish her dominance over them, how not to run away from them and encourage the chasing, and how to "pop" them if they started jumping up on her. Don't misunderstand discipline as abuse, it's not. Those of you that have owned dogs and large animals know what I'm talking about. It's about establishing under no uncertain terms, that you (and all humans for that matter) are the ALPHA over the dog, at ALL times! Nothing is for free. Start using their meals as training opportunities. I had a trainer once recommend the entire meal to be fed through training spurts throughout the day. She also taught me how to teach my dogs that NOTHING is free. They must earn their right to everything in their lives, and you are the resource! They need you to survive.
George (O'Manny) used to love barking at me when I was reprimanding an overzealous puppy that was jumping up on me. If I was disciplining his littermate, he'd bark and bark and bark. I'd finish the discipline, then run after George and grab him by the scruff of the neck and roll him over sideways until he yelped and relented and thought to himself, "why did she do that to me, that wasn't cool?". They learn quickly to do what is pleasant and to do what I expect, because if they don't, I'll turn into Luna and do unpleasant things to them!
Lets take nail dremmeling for example. They don't like it! They squirm, squeal, bite at my hand, bite at the dremmel, anything they thing they can do to get away from the undesired task. The more they bite, squirm, or squeal, the firmer my grip gets. They'll even pee on themselves and me. Because I'm always alone when I do the nails (no one to hold peanut butter to distract them), I will wrestle with them for a few minutes before they finally realize I'm not giving up. Once they relax and give in, I get the job done quicker, praise lavishly when I'm done, then they can carry on about their business. As we progress through each Sunday, they actually figure out from week to week the less they struggle, and the more cooperative they are, the faster I get the nail dremmel job done and the faster they get to go back to whatever it was they were doing. They are not dumb dogs, but they will make you feel like dumb owners.
I have 15 years of expeience and have raised so many Swissy puppies, I think I actually think like a Swissy. They are going to be testing boundaries and limits with you all. I highly recommend Karen Pryor's book on "Don't Shoot the Dog". Swissies love to please you and make you happy. They aim to please, always remember that. They'll do anything for a snack, treat, or foodl.
If they jump up a lot, which Luna does and her mother, Rixey, did......you'll have to work really hard on the sit stay. They get no love, no food, no treats, NOTHING, unless they are sitting first. When their leash is attached, you can step on it quickly so they can't jump up. DO NOT let a 100+ pound animal jump up on you. MAKE THEM SIT or DOWN first. They will learn, because they want to please you. If you establish this now, while they are little and puppies, the sit or down will become a habit. I had to "rewire" Luna from an automatic sit when greeting family or strangers, to actually commanding her to a "stand stay" when she was in the ring being judges. It was worth it to me to keep her feet "four on the floor" when she would first sit for judges on examination.
Imagine the concept of a 100 pound mother staving off 9 ravenous little puppies wanting to nurse, when she's dried up and doesn't want them to nurse. It is not a pretty scene for several minutes. The most stubborn ones keep coming back for more, and the more they come back to try and nurse, the more aggressive and firm Luna gets. She tries with just a bark warning, but then she'll actually chase away and pin down the ones that don't get her first warning....and I've seen her have them completely on their backs with their entire heads in her mouth and she won't stop until they turn into jello and just lay there, completely relaxed.....submitting, basically.
When they jump up on me, I grab their little paws and hold onto them and squeeze in between their pads. The don't like it, they pull back, then they squeal. When they realize that if they do something unpleasant to me, I'm going to return something unpleasant to them, they figure out really quickly to act and behave in socially acceptable ways.
As for the biting, I would scream bloody murder and scare the daylights out of the puppy, even though it didn't actually hurt. I like to set the precedent and tone that human skin is like butter. When they chew on each other, they know their limits by how loudly the puppy being bit screams or gives it back to them.
While they are still young and impressionable, you need to become "mom" and establish dominance over them at all times.
Shillelagh is really vocal about being in the crate while she can't see us, but she hears us. Last night, every time she started to bark or whine, I squirted her from a distance with a water bottle. She was not happy. She continued to bark, I continued to squirt. She was soaking wet, but figured out in about 10 minutes, if I bark, I get squirted, if I'm quiet, no one squirts me. The water didn't hurt her, but getting wet was unpleasant. If you return your discipline with something unpleasant to them, they figure out pretty quickly they don't want to experience unpleasant things.
Hope this helps!
Colleen
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Emergency First Aid Kits for Dog Owners
From Dan Campeau of Suddanly Swissies
http://www.suddanlyfarms.com/
``````````````````````````````````````````
I had wrote to one of my puppy buyers.
For future,
When you can I would order a stomach tube from KV vet supply catalog, order a
couple vet wraps (to put in dogs mouth so they do not bite into tube while
running it down there esophagus)
When you get stomach tube, have your vet or me show you how to use it in case
of emergency, will usually take two people to do it.
I would have a small emergency box that goes with the dogs on trips or have on
hand at the house. I would have stomach tub, vet wrap, hemostats, liquid
novacaine and stitch materials ( can order from vet supply catalog) , I also
usually have a couple of boxes of pepto bismol tablets, and Gas ex (simethicone
tabs) and a bottle of Benadryl in case of snake bites or insects stings.
Snake bites/insect bites- Best thing is to catch it early if possible.. give
benedyrl ASAP (continue every 6-8 hours for first 2-3 days post bite) and then
put them on antibiotics (get at vet visit within 24 to 48 hours) so that poison
that will cause tissue damage will not set up systemic infections.
On stomach issues- If you see them acting distressed, antsy, biting at their
sides, sitting hunched up in pain or eating grass or licking carpet or
furniture materials. Give two tabs of Simethicone and then give two tabs of
Pepto, if they are not better in 15-30 minutes take them to vets. Give both
meds every 4-6 hours until they are acting normally, put on bland diet for a
couple days. If the dog really gets distended, pass stomach tube and get
meds down them, put them in a quiet place, if they fill right back up with
gas or you cannot pass the stomach tube down their throat to alleviate gas
build up,rush her to the vets,Vet can try stomach tube and a trocar (large
quage needle) thru their side to alleviate gas, if stomach is torsed on
ex-ray, you will need to go in and remove spleen, and tack stomach...
NOTE- it is a waste of time to tack stomach without removing spleen, most
times in swissys it is the enlarged spleen that causes the stomach to torse and
if you have to do surgery anyway, I would remove spleen because that way you
know that all normal causes of torsion will be gone.
IF you leave spleen in, usually before end of dogs life, it will enlarge
sometime, and tear the stomach tack and you will have to go in for a second
surgery.
*On stomach issues, I would look at diet because many times if you are feeding
a diet that has corn, wheat, soy or milk products your dog may have a food
sensitivity that may be causing the upsets in the first place.
Dan
http://www.suddanlyfarms.com/
``````````````````````````````````````````
I had wrote to one of my puppy buyers.
For future,
When you can I would order a stomach tube from KV vet supply catalog, order a
couple vet wraps (to put in dogs mouth so they do not bite into tube while
running it down there esophagus)
When you get stomach tube, have your vet or me show you how to use it in case
of emergency, will usually take two people to do it.
I would have a small emergency box that goes with the dogs on trips or have on
hand at the house. I would have stomach tub, vet wrap, hemostats, liquid
novacaine and stitch materials ( can order from vet supply catalog) , I also
usually have a couple of boxes of pepto bismol tablets, and Gas ex (simethicone
tabs) and a bottle of Benadryl in case of snake bites or insects stings.
Snake bites/insect bites- Best thing is to catch it early if possible.. give
benedyrl ASAP (continue every 6-8 hours for first 2-3 days post bite) and then
put them on antibiotics (get at vet visit within 24 to 48 hours) so that poison
that will cause tissue damage will not set up systemic infections.
On stomach issues- If you see them acting distressed, antsy, biting at their
sides, sitting hunched up in pain or eating grass or licking carpet or
furniture materials. Give two tabs of Simethicone and then give two tabs of
Pepto, if they are not better in 15-30 minutes take them to vets. Give both
meds every 4-6 hours until they are acting normally, put on bland diet for a
couple days. If the dog really gets distended, pass stomach tube and get
meds down them, put them in a quiet place, if they fill right back up with
gas or you cannot pass the stomach tube down their throat to alleviate gas
build up,rush her to the vets,Vet can try stomach tube and a trocar (large
quage needle) thru their side to alleviate gas, if stomach is torsed on
ex-ray, you will need to go in and remove spleen, and tack stomach...
NOTE- it is a waste of time to tack stomach without removing spleen, most
times in swissys it is the enlarged spleen that causes the stomach to torse and
if you have to do surgery anyway, I would remove spleen because that way you
know that all normal causes of torsion will be gone.
IF you leave spleen in, usually before end of dogs life, it will enlarge
sometime, and tear the stomach tack and you will have to go in for a second
surgery.
*On stomach issues, I would look at diet because many times if you are feeding
a diet that has corn, wheat, soy or milk products your dog may have a food
sensitivity that may be causing the upsets in the first place.
Dan
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Luna x Stevie Pups Have Arrived!
They're HERE! and they're really gorgeous!
Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) and Cathy Cooper's Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) have 9 gorgeous and healthy puppies that were born on March 16th through St. Patrick's Day, March 17th! NOX GSMD site for pix of mom, dad, and the puppies!
http://www.noxgsmd.com
Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) and Cathy Cooper's Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) have 9 gorgeous and healthy puppies that were born on March 16th through St. Patrick's Day, March 17th! NOX GSMD site for pix of mom, dad, and the puppies!
http://www.noxgsmd.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)