Puppies on the way!

October 2009: PUPPY ALERT!

Since the last litter was so outstanding, we bred Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) to Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) AGAIN! Puppies are due around October 23rd-- in time for them to go to their forever homes near Christmas! If you are interested in obtaining a puppy from me, please fill out my puppy application.

And BIG CONGRATULATIONS to Dad Stevie for his TRIPLE BEST OF BREED TITLES at the Eastern Swissy Specialty in Millwood, VA!

Recognizing Heat Stroke in Dogs

It's HOT out there! Please make sure you're aware of the signs of heatstroke in your pet.
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Early Stages of Heat-Stroke in Animals:
Heavy panting.
Rapid breathing
Excessive drooling.
Bright red gums and tongue.
Standing 4-square, posting or spreading out in an attempt to maintain balance.

Advanced Stages:
White or blue gums.
Lethargy, unwillingness to move.
Uncontrollable urination or defecation.
Labored, noisy breathing.
Shock.

If your dog begins to exhibit signs of heatstroke, you should immediately try to cool the dog down:
Apply rubbing alcohol to the dog's paw pads.
Apply ice packs to the groin area.
Hose down with water.
Allow the dog to lick ice chips or drink a small amount of water.
Offer Pedialyte to restore electrolytes.
Check your dog's temperature regularly during this process. Once the dog's temperature has stabilized at between 100 to 102 degrees, you can stop the cool-down process.
If you cannot get the dog cooled down and you begin to see signs of advanced heatstroke, take the dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Anne Gavin – Organizer, DC Area Cavalier Spaniel Meet-Up Group



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Treating mast cell tumors

"The FDA said Palladia (toceranib phosphate) has been approved to treat canine cutaneous mast cell tumors, a type of cancer responsible for about 1 of 5 cases of canine skin tumors."Katie's first Basset Bleu de Gascogne died of mast cell carcinoma. Here is the link:

http://www.upi.com/Science_News/2009/06/03/FDA-approves-drug-to-treat-cancer-in-dogs/UPI-60081244039573/

More on early neutering...

http://www.avma.org/onlnews/javma/may09/090515j.asp

And here is the portion he refers to:

"Although spay/neuter is an important part of effective population control programs, and may benefit individual dogs and cats if performed at the appropriate time, whether and when to spay/neuter specific animals requires the application of science and professional judgment to ensure the best outcome for veterinary patients and their owners. Prevention of unexpected litters; reduced incidences of some cancers and reproductive diseases; and prevention and amelioration of certain undesirable behaviors have been documented as benefits to spaying/neutering dogs and cats. However, potential health problems associated with spaying and neutering have also been identified, including an increased risk of prostatic cancer in males; increased risks of bone cancer and hip dysplasia in large-breed dogs associated with sterilization before maturity; and increased incidences of obesity, diabetes, urinary tract infections, urinary incontinence, and hypothyroidism."

Effects of Early Neutering

This is an excellent article from http://www.caninesports.com/

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Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete by Chris Zink, DVM, PhD


Neuter or not?
Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and owners working with canine athletes should revisit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.

Orthopedic Considerations
A study by Salmeri et al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, who were taller than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).(1) A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers performed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.(2) The sex hormones, by communicating with a number of other growth-related hormones, promote the closure of the growth plates at puberty (3), so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle likely becomes heavier (because it is longer), and may cause increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. In addition, sex hormones are critical for achieving peak bone density.(4) These structural and physiological alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study showed that spayed and neutered dogs had a higher incidence of CCL rupture.(5) Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age, although it should be noted that in this study there were no standard criteria for the diagnosis of hip dysplasia.(6) Nonetheless, breeders of purebred dogs should be cognizant of these studies and should consider whether or not pups they bred were spayed or neutered when considering breeding decisions.

Cancer Considerations
A retrospective study of cardiac tumors in dogs showed that there was a 5 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, one of the three most common cancers in dogs, in spayed bitches than intact bitches and a 2.4 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma in neutered dogs as compared to intact males.(7) A study of 3218 dogs demonstrated that dogs that were neutered before a year of age had a significantly increased chance of developing bone cancer.(8) A separate study showed that neutered dogs had a two-fold higher risk of developing bone cancer.(9) Despite the common belief that neutering dogs helps prevent prostate cancer, at least one study suggests that neutering provides no benefit.(10) There certainly is evidence of a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle, and for increased risk with each subsequent heat. While about 30 % of mammary cancers are malignant, as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good.(12) Luckily, canine athletes are handled frequently and generally receive prompt veterinary care.

Behavioral Considerations
The study that identified a higher incidence of cranial cruciate ligament rupture in spayed or neutered dogs also identified an increased incidence of sexual behaviors in males and females that were neutered early.(5) Further, the study that identified a higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs neutered or spayed before 5 1/2 months also showed that early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors.(6) A recent report of the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation reported significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs. The most commonly observed behavioral problem in spayed females was fearful behavior and the most common problem in males was aggression.(12)

Other Health Considerations
A number of studies have shown that there is an increase in the incidence of female urinary incontinence in dogs spayed early (13), although this finding has not been universal. Certainly there is evidence that ovarian hormones are critical for maintenance of genital tissue structure and contractility.(14, 15) Neutering also has been associated with an increased likelihood of urethral sphincter incontinence in males.(16) This problem is an inconvenience, and not usually life-threatening, but nonetheless one that requires the dog to be medicated for life. A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.(2) This study is consistent with the results of another study in which neutering and spaying was determined to be the most significant gender-associated risk factor for development of hypothyroidism.(17) Infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were spayed or neutered at 24 weeks or less as opposed to those undergoing gonadectomy at more than 24 weeks.(18) Finally, the AKC-CHF report demonstrated a higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in neutered dogs as compared to intact.(12)

To spay or not to spay
I have gathered these studies to show that our practice of routinely spaying or neutering every dog at or before the age of 6 months is not a black-and-white issue. Clearly more studies need to be done to evaluate the effects of prepubertal spaying and neutering, particularly in canine athletes.

Currently, I have significant concerns with spaying or neutering canine athletes before puberty. But of course, there is the pet overpopulation problem. How can we prevent the production of unwanted dogs while still leaving the gonads to produce the hormones that are so important to canine growth and development? One answer would be to perform vasectomies in males and tubal ligation in females, to be followed after maturity by ovariohysterectomy in females to prevent mammary cancer and pyometra. One possible disadvantage is that vasectomy does not prevent some unwanted behaviors associated with males such as marking and humping. On the other hand, females and neutered males frequently participate in these behaviors too. Really, training is the best solution for these issues. Another possible disadvantage is finding a veterinarian who is experienced in performing these procedures. Nonetheless, some do, and if the procedures were in greater demand, more veterinarians would learn them.

I believe it is important that we assess each situation individually. For canine athletes, I currently recommend that dogs and bitches be spayed or neutered after 14 months of age.

References:

1. Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.. Gonadectomy in immature dogs: effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral development. JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203
2. http://www.grca.org/healthsurvey.pdf
3. Grumbach MM. Estrogen, bone, growth and sex: a sea change in conventional wisdom. J Pediatr Endocrinol Metab. 2000;13 Suppl 6:1439-55.
4. Gilsanz V, Roe TF, Gibbens DT, Schulz EE, Carlson ME, Gonzalez O, Boechat MI. Effect of sex steroids on peak bone density of growing rabbits. Am J Physiol. 1988 Oct;255(4 Pt 1):E416-21.
5. Slauterbeck JR, Pankratz K, Xu KT, Bozeman SC, Hardy DM. Canine ovariohysterectomy and orchiectomy increases the prevalence of ACL injury. Clin Orthop Relat Res. 2004 Dec;(429):301-5.
6. Spain CV, Scarlett JM, Houpt KA. Long-term risks and benefits of early-age gonadectomy in dogs. JAVMA 2004;224:380-387.
7. Ware WA, Hopper DL. Cardiac tumors in dogs: 1982-1995. J Vet Intern Med 1999 Mar-Apr;13(2):95-103
8. Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, Glickman NW, Glickman LT, Waters D, Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2002 Nov;11(11):1434-40
9. Ru G, Terracini B, Glickman LT. Host related risk factors for canine osteosarcoma. Vet J. 1998 Jul;156(1):31-9.
10. Obradovich J, Walshaw R, Goullaud E. The influence of castration on the development of prostatic carcinoma in the dog. 43 cases (1978-1985). J Vet Intern Med 1987 Oct-Dec;1(4):183-7
11. http://www.akcchf.org/pdfs/whitepapers/Biennial_National_Parent_Club_Canine_Health_Conference.pdf
12. Meuten DJ. Tumors in Domestic Animals. 4th Edn. Iowa State Press, Blackwell Publishing Company, Ames, Iowa, p. 575
13. Stocklin-Gautschi NM, Hassig M, Reichler IM, Hubler M, Arnold S. The relationship of urinary incontinence to early spaying in bitches. J. Reprod. Fertil. Suppl. 57:233-6, 2001
14. Pessina MA, Hoyt RF Jr, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Differential effects of estradiol, progesterone, and testosterone on vaginal structural integrity. Endocrinology. 2006 Jan;147(1):61-9.
15. Kim NN, Min K, Pessina MA, Munarriz R, Goldstein I, Traish AM. Effects of ovariectomy and steroid hormones on vaginal smooth muscle contractility. Int J Impot Res. 2004 Feb;16(1):43-50.
16. Aaron A, Eggleton K, Power C, Holt PE. Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence in male dogs: a retrospective analysis of 54 cases. Vet Rec. 139:542-6, 1996
17. Panciera DL. Hypothyroidism in dogs: 66 cases (1987-1992). J. Am. Vet. Med. Assoc., 204:761-7 1994
18. Howe LM, Slater MR, Boothe HW, Hobson HP, Holcom JL, Spann AC. Long-term outcome of gonadectomy performed at an early age or traditional age in dogs. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2001 Jan 15;218(2):217-21.

Puppies trying to "run the show"...

This is a response to an email from one of my new puppy owners re: puppies trying to "run the show"...
Enjoy,
Colleen
________________________________

This is easier to explain in a live conversation. He's basically decided to manipulate you, because he can.

They need a firm, but loving approach to raising. I wish you could watch Luna interact and play with them. She is very rough, she is not gentle in any way, and she puts their entire heads and bodies in her mouth and holds them in a vice grip until they are squealing, running, and desperately trying to get away from her because what started out as play turned very quickly into 'mommy' having complete and total control over them and took it to a level for them that was unpleasant, and she didn't let them get off the hook easily (she continued to pursue them and bat at them with her front paws, and maul them, and chase them ....all playing from her perspective.... but ultimately they got overwhelmed and decided, "this isn't fun anymore"). Once they flee, she leaves them alone, they leave her alone.

When they bark at me, I scare the crap out of them and lunge at them and bark or shout back and say "enough" or no. I basically go after them like Luna would and make their "demand" unpleasant because I give it right back to them. Here's a classic example of what Shillelagh (O'Leary) was doing to Stephanie yesterday. Stephanie crawled in her crate with her and Shillelagh was relentless about eating her hair and biting at her. The more Stephanie laughed, the more out of hand Shillelagh became. To Shillelagh, Stephanie was a littermate to chew on. To Stephanie, she couldn't get control of the puppy and make her stop. I intervened and reached in the crate, grabbed Shillelagh by her lower jaw with my right hand, while pressing my thumb nail down....HARD... on her tongue. As she backed away and pulled her head away, I kept pressing and she squealed. When she was opening her jaws and backing up to get away from me, because now the fun game became unpleasant for her, I said in a firm tone, "Leave it!". She didn't touch Stephanie again! I am not abusive with them, but I am not gentle either.

The puppies were the hardest on Alyssa, my youngest, because they would gang up on her and all maul her at the same time. I would go after them like a mad woman and they learned really fast, stay away from Alyssa! I also taught Alyssa how to establish her dominance over them, how not to run away from them and encourage the chasing, and how to "pop" them if they started jumping up on her. Don't misunderstand discipline as abuse, it's not. Those of you that have owned dogs and large animals know what I'm talking about. It's about establishing under no uncertain terms, that you (and all humans for that matter) are the ALPHA over the dog, at ALL times! Nothing is for free. Start using their meals as training opportunities. I had a trainer once recommend the entire meal to be fed through training spurts throughout the day. She also taught me how to teach my dogs that NOTHING is free. They must earn their right to everything in their lives, and you are the resource! They need you to survive.

George (O'Manny) used to love barking at me when I was reprimanding an overzealous puppy that was jumping up on me. If I was disciplining his littermate, he'd bark and bark and bark. I'd finish the discipline, then run after George and grab him by the scruff of the neck and roll him over sideways until he yelped and relented and thought to himself, "why did she do that to me, that wasn't cool?". They learn quickly to do what is pleasant and to do what I expect, because if they don't, I'll turn into Luna and do unpleasant things to them!

Lets take nail dremmeling for example. They don't like it! They squirm, squeal, bite at my hand, bite at the dremmel, anything they thing they can do to get away from the undesired task. The more they bite, squirm, or squeal, the firmer my grip gets. They'll even pee on themselves and me. Because I'm always alone when I do the nails (no one to hold peanut butter to distract them), I will wrestle with them for a few minutes before they finally realize I'm not giving up. Once they relax and give in, I get the job done quicker, praise lavishly when I'm done, then they can carry on about their business. As we progress through each Sunday, they actually figure out from week to week the less they struggle, and the more cooperative they are, the faster I get the nail dremmel job done and the faster they get to go back to whatever it was they were doing. They are not dumb dogs, but they will make you feel like dumb owners.

I have 15 years of expeience and have raised so many Swissy puppies, I think I actually think like a Swissy. They are going to be testing boundaries and limits with you all. I highly recommend Karen Pryor's book on "Don't Shoot the Dog". Swissies love to please you and make you happy. They aim to please, always remember that. They'll do anything for a snack, treat, or foodl.

If they jump up a lot, which Luna does and her mother, Rixey, did......you'll have to work really hard on the sit stay. They get no love, no food, no treats, NOTHING, unless they are sitting first. When their leash is attached, you can step on it quickly so they can't jump up. DO NOT let a 100+ pound animal jump up on you. MAKE THEM SIT or DOWN first. They will learn, because they want to please you. If you establish this now, while they are little and puppies, the sit or down will become a habit. I had to "rewire" Luna from an automatic sit when greeting family or strangers, to actually commanding her to a "stand stay" when she was in the ring being judges. It was worth it to me to keep her feet "four on the floor" when she would first sit for judges on examination.

Imagine the concept of a 100 pound mother staving off 9 ravenous little puppies wanting to nurse, when she's dried up and doesn't want them to nurse. It is not a pretty scene for several minutes. The most stubborn ones keep coming back for more, and the more they come back to try and nurse, the more aggressive and firm Luna gets. She tries with just a bark warning, but then she'll actually chase away and pin down the ones that don't get her first warning....and I've seen her have them completely on their backs with their entire heads in her mouth and she won't stop until they turn into jello and just lay there, completely relaxed.....submitting, basically.

When they jump up on me, I grab their little paws and hold onto them and squeeze in between their pads. The don't like it, they pull back, then they squeal. When they realize that if they do something unpleasant to me, I'm going to return something unpleasant to them, they figure out really quickly to act and behave in socially acceptable ways.

As for the biting, I would scream bloody murder and scare the daylights out of the puppy, even though it didn't actually hurt. I like to set the precedent and tone that human skin is like butter. When they chew on each other, they know their limits by how loudly the puppy being bit screams or gives it back to them.

While they are still young and impressionable, you need to become "mom" and establish dominance over them at all times.

Shillelagh is really vocal about being in the crate while she can't see us, but she hears us. Last night, every time she started to bark or whine, I squirted her from a distance with a water bottle. She was not happy. She continued to bark, I continued to squirt. She was soaking wet, but figured out in about 10 minutes, if I bark, I get squirted, if I'm quiet, no one squirts me. The water didn't hurt her, but getting wet was unpleasant. If you return your discipline with something unpleasant to them, they figure out pretty quickly they don't want to experience unpleasant things.

Hope this helps!

Colleen

Emergency First Aid Kits for Dog Owners

From Dan Campeau of Suddanly Swissies
http://www.suddanlyfarms.com/

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I had wrote to one of my puppy buyers.

For future,

When you can I would order a stomach tube from KV vet supply catalog, order a
couple vet wraps (to put in dogs mouth so they do not bite into tube while
running it down there esophagus)

When you get stomach tube, have your vet or me show you how to use it in case
of emergency, will usually take two people to do it.

I would have a small emergency box that goes with the dogs on trips or have on
hand at the house. I would have stomach tub, vet wrap, hemostats, liquid
novacaine and stitch materials ( can order from vet supply catalog) , I also
usually have a couple of boxes of pepto bismol tablets, and Gas ex (simethicone
tabs) and a bottle of Benadryl in case of snake bites or insects stings.

Snake bites/insect bites- Best thing is to catch it early if possible.. give
benedyrl ASAP (continue every 6-8 hours for first 2-3 days post bite) and then
put them on antibiotics (get at vet visit within 24 to 48 hours) so that poison
that will cause tissue damage will not set up systemic infections.

On stomach issues- If you see them acting distressed, antsy, biting at their
sides, sitting hunched up in pain or eating grass or licking carpet or
furniture materials. Give two tabs of Simethicone and then give two tabs of
Pepto, if they are not better in 15-30 minutes take them to vets. Give both
meds every 4-6 hours until they are acting normally, put on bland diet for a
couple days. If the dog really gets distended, pass stomach tube and get
meds down them, put them in a quiet place, if they fill right back up with
gas or you cannot pass the stomach tube down their throat to alleviate gas
build up,rush her to the vets,Vet can try stomach tube and a trocar (large
quage needle) thru their side to alleviate gas, if stomach is torsed on
ex-ray, you will need to go in and remove spleen, and tack stomach...

NOTE- it is a waste of time to tack stomach without removing spleen, most
times in swissys it is the enlarged spleen that causes the stomach to torse and
if you have to do surgery anyway, I would remove spleen because that way you
know that all normal causes of torsion will be gone.

IF you leave spleen in, usually before end of dogs life, it will enlarge
sometime, and tear the stomach tack and you will have to go in for a second
surgery.


*On stomach issues, I would look at diet because many times if you are feeding
a diet that has corn, wheat, soy or milk products your dog may have a food
sensitivity that may be causing the upsets in the first place.

Dan

Luna x Stevie Pups Have Arrived!

They're HERE! and they're really gorgeous!
Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) and Cathy Cooper's Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) have 9 gorgeous and healthy puppies that were born on March 16th through St. Patrick's Day, March 17th! NOX GSMD site for pix of mom, dad, and the puppies!
http://www.noxgsmd.com

Dr. Jean Dodd's New Vaccine Protocol

From Dr. Jean Dodd...




Dr. Jean Dodds' Recommended Vaccination Schedule
Vaccine Initial 1st Annual Booster Re-Administration Interval Comments
Distemper (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only
None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 / 15 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Can have numerous side effects if given too young (< 8 weeks).
Parvovirus (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Rabies
(killed) 24 weeks or older At 1 year (give 3-4 weeks apart from Dist/Parvo booster) Killed 3 year rabies vaccine 3 yr. vaccine given as required by law in California (follow your state/provincial requirements) rabid animals may infect dogs.
Vaccines Not Recommended For Dogs
Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger Not recommended.
At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Corona Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 weeks of age.
2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
Leptospirosis Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
Lyme Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
Boretella
(Intranasal)
(killed) Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
Duration of immunity 6 months.
Giardia Not recommended
Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies

There are two types of vaccines currently available to veterinarians: modified-live vaccines and inactivated ("killed") vaccines.
Immunization Schedules

There is a great deal of controversy and confusion surrounding the appropriate immunization schedule, especially with the availability of modified-live vaccines and breeders who have experienced postvaccinal problems when using some of these vaccines. It is also important to not begin a vaccination program while maternal antibodies are still active and present in the puppy from the mother's colostrum. The maternal antibodies identify the vaccines as infectious organisms and destroy them before they can stimulate an immune response.

Many breeders and owners have sought a safer immunization program.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)

Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)

Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.


W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310/ 828-4804
fax: 310/ 828-8251

Note: This schedule is the one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It's a matter of professional judgment and choice. For breeds or families of dogs susceptible to or affected with immune dysfunction, immune-mediated disease, immune-reactions associated with vaccinations, or autoimmune endocrine disease (e.g., thyroiditis, Addison's or Cushing's disease, diabetes, etc.) the above protocol is recommended.

After 1 year, annually measure serum antibody titers against specific canine infectious agents such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially recommended for animals previously experiencing adverse vaccine reactions or breeds at higher risk for such reactions (e.g., Weimaraner, Akita, American Eskimo, Great Dane).

Another alternative to booster vaccinations is homeopathic nosodes. This option is considered an unconventional treatment that has not been scientifically proven to be efficacious. One controlled parvovirus nosode study did not adequately protect puppies under challenged conditions. However, data from Europe and clinical experience in North America support its use. If veterinarians choose to use homeopathic nosodes, their clients should be provided with an appropriate disclaimer and written informed consent should be obtained.

I use only killed 3 year rabies vaccine for adults and give it separated from other vaccines by 3-4 weeks. In some states, they may be able to give titer test result in lieu of booster.

I do NOT use Bordetella, corona virus, leptospirosis or Lyme vaccines unless these diseases are endemic in the local area pr specific kennel. Furthermore, the currently licensed leptospira bacterins do not contain the serovars causing the majority of clinical leptospirosis today.

I do NOT recommend vaccinating bitches during estrus, pregnancy or lactation.

W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET

The "Swissy Lick"

This is from Cathy Cooper's website http://www.shadetreegreaterswiss.com/....
The "Swissy Lick"

This is an entirely unscientific term to describe the sudden onset of frantic licking of anything in range such as carpet, bare floor, walls etc. and the indiscriminate eating of anything that can be swallowed such as grass, leaves, fiber from carpets etc. and gobbling up of air. It is obvious that the behavior is due to severe gastrointestinal discomfort. It sometimes can be alleviated with medications such as Digel, Gas-X or other gas and acid reducing remedies. Often, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting will help. What exactly causes the "Swissy Lick" is a matter of discussion among Swissy owners but there seems to be no single or definite factor responsible for this condition. Any number of theories have been offered, from exessive gas pressure to acid reflux to allergic reaction to a food substance. Some believe that it is a precursor to GDV but this cannot be clearly substantiated either as many Swissys who have had these licking episodes never went on to develop GDV. While the condition appears to affect primarily young dogs, it has also been reported in older Swissys. Often, young dogs eventually will outgrow the condition.

Mastitis also

Antibiotics for mom........
probiocin immediately for mom and pups (as the antibiotics will cause diarrhea for pups)
Lots of warm compresses......as hot as you can stand it.
Tape the nipple off so pups can't nurse on it (unlike human breastfeeding where they want us to pump to extract the infection and throw away the milk......or even let child nurse through the excruciatingly painful infection).

Mastitis

From Dan Campeau...
When you milk it out,,, if it still looks white I would continue to let largest pup milk it out every 4 hours to make sure you are releasing pressure and it will usually work itself out.

If the milk looks yellow or green or has blood in it then I would get a breast pump, milk the teat out several (4-5) times per day, put your bitch on amoxycilline for 2 weeks and tape it so pups cannot nurse from it. While bitch is on antibiotics I give pups 1-2 cc of vanilla yogurt everyday so they do not loose their beneficial gut bacteria.

*** When the milk goes back to white with no signs of blood then I would put bigger pups on it to to keep it milked out.

I usually feel the bitches underline every 4-6 hours when I bring mom back in from being outside to exercise,,, and if one teat starts feeling hard or hot I get the biggest pups to milk it out for next couple of feeding cycles and it usually will clear up on its own.

UTIs in Swissy Girls

From Pamela Kalupa

Our first Swissy bitch have bladder infections/uti's. She was on a regimen of antibiotics (amoxi, cephalexin, clavamox, and finally primor). Her uti's consisted of a lot of blood. We even did a cytocentesis. Which showed e-coli.


I'll bet that's what they're see if they send it out for a culture, if they did the cytocentesis. I've had pups (girls) that I placed, that had uti's as they were older. Our recommendation that was given by one of our vets that worked at my clinic was cranberry extract 325 mg. and wiping the vulva everytime she urinated with unscented/non alcohol baby wipes. Instead of cranberry extract, I like Solid Gold Berry Balance. Needless to say, it's a pain the butt. It did work. We also did this until she came into her first heat and haven't had a problem since and she'll be 8 yrs. old in October.


The other choice would be to find the bacteria. Give the antibiotic (remember certain ones sh ould NOT be given to growing pups). Add the cranberries/extract , o r something on that order. Do the baby wipes. And possibly continue on a low grade antibiotic (amoxicillin) until she comes into season which we have done with one of our pups with no ill side affects.


If it's just leaking urine, but no bladder infections -- HomeoPet "Leaks No More" has worked on one of our other bitches who would just run through the house urinating when she was pup. She came into season and was fine. Hasn't leaked yet.


Pam






On Sep 8, 2008, at 9:04 PM, Susan McClintick wrote:


I have a puppy owner that has a female puppy that is having a re-occurring UTI.

She told me that she had her potty trained for the most part and then notice she was dribbling while walking and licking herself. She took her to the vet, they gave her Clavamox for 10 days. Toward the end of the treatment she seemed better and was again not having any accidents in the house. Three days after the antibiotics was completed she started dribbling again. This time they did a clean sample and told her the infection was only in the bladder and gave her 3 weeks worth of Clavamox. Again she seemed well with the treatment and stopped dribbling. Three days after the antibiotics she started licking again and started to dribble. She did say she also threw up that day. It was just dog food, but has no t gotten sick again and seems to otherwise act normal. Today is the 5th day after the last treatment.

She is taking her back to the vet. I told her to ask if they did a culture to find out what was causing the infection. What kind of bacteria is it? I also told her to ask about maybe it being a kidney infection and possibly changing the antibiotic to something stronger incase the bacteria is resistant to the Clavamox.

Any suggestions? I've never had a bitch with a UTI so this is unknown territory to me. The puppy turned 5 months old on the 3rd of September. None of the other females in this litter seem to be having any issues of this sort.

About Pano in Young Swissys

From Sharyl Mayhew...
In this order: 1. Cage rest, 2. LEASH WALK ONLY and 3. minimal use of pain relievers. Rimadyl is your best bet because unlike previcox and derramax and some of the others it helps keep the joint fluid constant better than the rest. Please don't use bute in a young growing dog.

Use the NSAID to make them comfortable, NOT to make them sound for competition or play. Cage rest, Rimadyl, leash walk only. Repeat again and again and no dog classes, no shows, no playing with the neighbor's dog. Cage rest, rimadyl, leash walk only maybe for a month or so!!!

Pano is a growing dog problem, keep them still, feed them light and let them grow out of it. The ortho specialists lately (last 10 years or so) suggest feeding a low protein/fat food such as....get this... PEDIGREE:) Go figure. Get her off of puppy or any high-end diet immediately, feed reduced portions and keep her a lean as possible until she's past this. Pedigree regular, not puppy or lamb or any other variety, just the plain jane, Costco yellow bag.

Cage rest, leash walking only and strongly Consider Adequan injections to protect the growing joints while the dog is intermittently lame. Adequan equine only (has no preservatives-the canine version does and can cause reactions in some dogs). Call Dr. Jackson 703-385-1054 and he can talk to another vet for them. We give Adequan 2cc IM every 4 days for 8 injections and sometimes monthly boosters of it thereafter until the dog is out of the age frame for pano.

****This does not help with pano in any way***. BUT, it does absolutely protect and strengthen the actual synovial joints (i.e. ball and socket joints like hip, elbow, shoulder, hocks, jaw etc.) so that the intermittant limping doesn't cause permanent damage in a young, growing, goofy, crash and burn, giant breed dog.

Bicepital tendinitis is also common in large/giant breeds, all of the above will help with that too. The most important course of treatment is CAGE REST, LEASH WALK ONLY and let them heal. No packing, no carting, no showing, no training. Work instead on quiet activities, kong chewing olympics, "quiet" time in the crate or on a leash, calm behavior on command and don't try to get back into competition too soon, the shows will still be there for her when she's sound and painfree and more mature and more competitive.


Sharyl

Leaking Pups

From Dan Campeau...
When I have a leaking pup, First thing I rule out is a Bladder or Kidney infection. If yes, then treat with Antibiotics and then follow up with Dried Cranberry leaf extract to stop recuring infections. Once infection is gone, leaking usually stops.
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If it is NOT an infection, I assume it is a hormonal issue that will resolve itself when the bitch goes through her first heat cycle. I have never had a pup that did not get better on their own when they went through first heat cycle.

The only thing I would do as a prophlactic measure on a bitch that shows negative on an infection is to give her Cranberry leaf extract so they do not develop an infection.

I do not treat these girls with any other drugs or supplements,,, I just manage the issue judisciously and know that it is a temporary condition. Put pup in an area that is easily cleaned, wash more blankets, keep them outside during the day if possible.
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I NEVER spay my girls before their first heat cycle , If you spay a swissy pup that is NOT leaking presently, they will start as you throw their systems into a state of instant menopause.

In most cases of girls that do NOT have a history of leaking, you will avoid many leaking issues if you wait until your girl has gone through at least one heat cycle.

Most of the leaking issues not attributed to infections are hormonal in nature and will get better with age and going through at least ONE heat cycle.


I recently had a leaking pup that I did a surgery on that is common in humans but not common in dogs and that was a hysterectomy only taking out the Uterus. I left the ovaries in so she would not have to be on replacement hormone therapy or major drugs to control leaking the rest of her life. I will continue to monitor her and let you know how it goes. She is making a wonderful pet and companion and is NOT leaking now.

Spaying and Neutering Your Swissy: Read On!

On my breeder's list and Swissy lists, a lot of emails have been exchanged about early spay and neuters. The gist of the exchanges I've forwarded to my web master to post as blogs. Julianne Wilson and Cathy Cooper and Brigitte Rhinehart, are 3 breeders that have been in this breed long enough to know the couple that brought Swissies to the US (as that was their foundation dogs in 1968). Breeders that have been around 20+ years are the "encyclopedias" that drive many of my decisions......so, with all do respect, here's a couple more opinions on the topics of early spay/neuter. The Summons family originated this breed in the late 60's and that is who Julianne Wilson in KY is referring to in her post below.

Happy reading.

Colleen

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Subject: early spay and mammary cancer

So here are the 'facts' on spaying early in regards to mammary cancer.
Spaying before 1st heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by over 99%.
However, spaying after only 1 heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by about 70% (depending on what study you read). Spaying after 2 reduces incidency by 25 %, and spaying after 2 or 3 cycles has no effect on incidence of mammary cancer.
Having said that, overall incidence of mammary cancer is estimated at 0.2% in the whole population. It is the most common cancer in female dogs, but in dogs, 50% are benign. Average age for onset of mammary tumors is 10-12 years old (so keep this in mind when advising swissy owners).
Additionally, one recent study has shown that early spay increases the incidence of lymphoma (can't find the paper to say exactly how much though, sorry). So as long as they spay before 2nd heat cycle I think waiting is totally reasonable. They still get a major protective effect, and incidence only goes up to 0.3%. I have removed 3 mammary cancers in the last year, all of which were dogs under 40 pounds. 2 were benign, the other was not but good prognosis since it was removed early. I see females every week with 'juvenile vulva' syndrome...recurrent UTI's and major issues. If not spaying your dog early was a death sentence via mammary cancer, my bitch would have been spayed long before now. My bitch is only 3 and each month when I give her heartworm preventive I roll her over and examine her... its just part of our routine. As long as puppy people know there are 2 sides to it...there's no reason why they can't make this decision (with your help). Obviously I am not a
big fan of hard and fast "rules" on how to treat a dog, when there are many factors that go into any medical decision. Having a large breed dog means you have increased risk of bone cancer, bloat, splenic tumors, etc etc. But you don't get a small breed dog because they have increased incidence of dental issues, endocardiosis, diabetes, patella luxation, etc etc. Males get prostatic problems and perianal tumors. Females get mammary tumors and pyometra....In order to avoid all predisposing problems, get a CAT for goodness sakes (they have issues too, surprise surprise). You can go on and on about how the genetics of any dog will predispose them to one problem or another, but you CANNOT make a decision on any one factor! GRRR! If your dog gets a mammary tumor, you have it removed ASAP...just like if they got a mast cell tumor you'd remove that ASAP. If any vet on the planet could predict what will happen to a dog and what they'll die from and at what age...they'd be a
billionaire.

Sorry about that, just a rant from one vet who thinks that many other vets have let pet overpopulation problems give them tunnel vision. I obviously have strong opinions on the subject, feel free to forward this to any puppy people being given a hard time.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Martin (the DVM with an intact bitch, despite having been ridiculed many times by other vets for it, and even nicknamed the 'dog pimp' by a radiologist in vet school)
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Subject: Re: early spay and mammary cancer

So i am not a veterinarian but have enjoyed Swissys in our family since
1988. Having been advised by Gretel Summons early on NOT to spay before the bitch
was 15 months old., preferably 24 months---also NOT to neuter a male before
18 months, preferably 24 moths. All this for two good reasons :
the females will almost always be incontinent when spayed before their
hormones are balanced and the males will likely not have majestic heads if
neutered before their hormones are established.
If i have a dog that does not pass health clearances, it is spayed or
neutered but that is after the 24 month time period. Otherwise, i spay and neuter
at 6 or 7 yrs, both sexes. No incontinent girls in all these years , and no
incidences of mammary cancer.
When we do raise a litter we advise all families taking a Swissy home, to
abide by the same advice we got from Gretel. We have a wonderful relationship
with our vets--we discuss advice and opinions and experiences and the
conclusion is : if it isn't broken, don't need to fix it. So we keep on the path
that offers the smoothest healthiest ground for our Swissys.
We once purchased a lovely English Springer who had been spayed at 7
months: she had mammary cancer 8 times in the 13 years she lived. Don't want to
even think about the odds on that.

Blessings

Too Early to Neuter Your Swissy?

This is a piece by Cathy Cooper, of Shadetree Swissys, one of the most respected women involved with the Swissy breed:

Spaying and Neutering

It is imperative that you do not spay your female GSMD before she is a minimum of 12 months old. GSMD that are spayed at any early age seem to have a great tendency towards incontinence. It is preferable to wait until she has gone through a heat cycle. I realize that there will be some inconvenience related to letting her go through a heat cycle, but GSMD that have gone through a heat cycle seem to be much less prone to incontinence than those who have not. Many “pet” vets will try to convince you that it is in your puppy’s best interest to spay earlier. It is true that dogs that go through a heat cycle have a slightly increased risk of mammary tumors (maybe 5%). It is also true that a Swissy spayed at a young age may be as much as 40% more likely to develop incontinence. It is up to you to weigh the risk. It is not your vet who will be living with a 100 lb dog that leaks urine. The truth be known, most vets want to spay at an early age because it is much easier surgery. You need to stand your ground on this issue.

Males are not affected with the incontinence issue, but you may want to wait until your male is 12 months or older as well. Males that are neutered earlier tend towards excessive long bone growth and tend to end up slightly “bitchy” looking. Swissys are very slow maturing and waiting until a year old does not have any ill effects.

Food Guarding

This is from an exchange I had with a puppy owner regarding Food Guarding...
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Sounds like you worked through the food thing on your own. Maybe I can do a better job as a breeder in articulating to my puppy families to ALWAYS feed them from your hand, throughout their lives, so they don't feel they have to "guard" their food. I also implement the sit and wait to be released for ALL my dogs once they are out of the "litter" environment. I was taught the philosophy that nothing is free, everything they do they have to earn by doing a command/behavior. So, when I have scraps (and Luna loves vegetable, bananas, etc...) I make Luna do her sit, or down, or sit stay, or down stay. She thinks it's fun because she's getting food and all Swissies are food driven. In the process, she's learning basic commands. She's not 100% on the down by any stretch, but she's perfected her sit! I also spend the first entire year of their life feeding them meals every now and then entirely from my hand. I'll sit in the living room with their food bowl and make them eat every morsel of the kibble out of my hand, and we all take turns. By the time they are a year old, we are all gods and godesses to them because they regard their "human" pack as their source of food. I've NEVER witnessed and/or experienced a Swissy that was food aggressive or growls. If I did, I think quite honestly, I'd knock the shit out of them and they wouldn't know what hit them. I have witnessed them being growly towards each other when they eat all together and someone finishes early and comes to see if there is any extra in the bowl. I don't discourage dog to dog vocalzing, ever, as it always maintains who is who in the pack and pecking order. I've never had one have to reprimand the other to "go away when I'm eating" except to stop chewing and growl. Luna figured out damn quick not to bother Rixey, her mother, when Rixey is eating. As puppies they all try to eat her food while she's eating and she'll absolutely demolish them and pin them down until they scream bloody murder. There's never any bite wounds and never any blood drawn, and they only have to get nailed once or twice to realize....."don't try to get mom's food while she's eating." I've learned a lot of my dicipline boundaries from watching all my mothers discipline their own brood. It's amazing how firm they are, without injuring. They instill a sense of respect in their own puppies. Sorry to hear about Boone growling, but it's imperative that you do some of the hand feeding, often, to make sure that never escalates into the dog on the show. I haven't seen the episode, but Cab's owner taped it for me.

Spaying your Swissy girl and urinary incontinence

This is an issue of WHEN is the BEST time, not when is the right time. You can take your female in to spay her tomorrow if you'd like. This issue of spaying a Swiss Mountain Dog bitch PRIOR to their first heat cycle is an issue of the EXTREMLY HIGH INCIDENCE of urinary incontinece in THIS breed for all those owners and veterinarians across the country who elected to spay a Swissy female prior to their first heat cycle. No one has done any formal research on this, and someone should.....we're in the midst of data and documentation on our bigger issues......bloat, epilepsy, OCD, etc....Not only do the frequent episodes of vaginitis and UTI's in Swissy females reduce (and if not almost disappear after the onset of the first heat cycle), the incidence of incontinence throughout life also reduces. I don't want to come across as being rude, but I would just like you and your vet to also seek the opinions of the following doctors that have a lot of experience with THIS breed (Dr. Greg Svoboda, Dr. Jackson, and Drs. Beamer or Dr. Byrd) you run the risk of Aggie developing the urinary incontinence. If after consulting with these doctors they say, "what the hell, spay the dog now," then so much for the anecdotal evidence that nobody has mustered the energy or time to formalize in a documented research study yet (it will happen, it will be someone's thesis or graduate research one day).

I'm emotionally driven and feel so strongly about this after my own personal experiences with Julee and her progeny, that I only needed to be burned once to understand what others have always advised me for years, I didn't heed myself. Do what you may, I'll be here to support you regardless of the outcome, but I feel better knowing that I did the very best I could to convince you and ALL my female companion puppies I place (which is better than 90% of the pups I produce) to STRONGLY ENCOURAGE owners to push the "envelope" to the first heat cycle. Also, know that you have your own female who has developed a UTI, a full sibling that has developed a UTI (Gem), a full sibling that possibly is having some difficulty concentrating urine (Luna) and a half-sibling who is incontinent after a spay at 12 months and was completely continent for the 12 months prior to the spay........all as cards stacked against you genetically. My Julee, who developed her incontinence after 3 litters and being spay at 5 1/2 months, more than likely experienced what they call estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence (but this can happen to bitches spay at any age and is usually treated with either diethylstilbestrol, DES, or phenylpropanolamine, Proin, which act to improve the closure of sphincters in the urinary tract). Estrogen-responsive incontinence's exact pathogenisis is unknown, but most bitches clinically present for "leaking" urine when relaxed and owners notice it's onset when they find urine spotting wherever the dog typically sleeps. This type of incontinence is more typical in bigger dogs, weighing more than 44 pounds, and in dogs spay at an early age. Julee's grandaughter, Mulligan, was spay at 7 months when she had her OCD lesion surgery and she was incontinent from her recovery on (prior to her surgery there was no incontinence). Lola, half-aunt to your Aggie, developed incontinence at 6 1/2 years of age, after having three litters and was never incontinent prior to that. Lola's full sister, Gretchen, was spay at 7 months and was incontinent from that day forward, they just turned 7. All the other littermates have reported no incontinence. Lola has produced two daughters, Mattie Rose in her first litter, and Nelli in her third litter, that both have estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence. Lola produced 24 puppies total in her lifetime. There's nothing more I can really say on this issue except that I've done the best I can to be thorough and provide every ounce of information I have against spaying prior to a first heat cycle. I suppose I always have the option to revise my contract to reflect my opinions on this issue. Thank God for the males, RIGHT?!? Don't worry, they come with their own set of baggage.

Talk to other breeders, other Swissy owners, the vets I know that have the MOST experience in this 100 mile radius with THIS breed, and whoever else you can before she goes under anesthesia......I'm totally confident that whatever the result, you'll handle.

NOX: My first Swissy