From Dan Campeau of Suddanly Swissies
http://www.suddanlyfarms.com/
``````````````````````````````````````````
I had wrote to one of my puppy buyers.
For future,
When you can I would order a stomach tube from KV vet supply catalog, order a
couple vet wraps (to put in dogs mouth so they do not bite into tube while
running it down there esophagus)
When you get stomach tube, have your vet or me show you how to use it in case
of emergency, will usually take two people to do it.
I would have a small emergency box that goes with the dogs on trips or have on
hand at the house. I would have stomach tub, vet wrap, hemostats, liquid
novacaine and stitch materials ( can order from vet supply catalog) , I also
usually have a couple of boxes of pepto bismol tablets, and Gas ex (simethicone
tabs) and a bottle of Benadryl in case of snake bites or insects stings.
Snake bites/insect bites- Best thing is to catch it early if possible.. give
benedyrl ASAP (continue every 6-8 hours for first 2-3 days post bite) and then
put them on antibiotics (get at vet visit within 24 to 48 hours) so that poison
that will cause tissue damage will not set up systemic infections.
On stomach issues- If you see them acting distressed, antsy, biting at their
sides, sitting hunched up in pain or eating grass or licking carpet or
furniture materials. Give two tabs of Simethicone and then give two tabs of
Pepto, if they are not better in 15-30 minutes take them to vets. Give both
meds every 4-6 hours until they are acting normally, put on bland diet for a
couple days. If the dog really gets distended, pass stomach tube and get
meds down them, put them in a quiet place, if they fill right back up with
gas or you cannot pass the stomach tube down their throat to alleviate gas
build up,rush her to the vets,Vet can try stomach tube and a trocar (large
quage needle) thru their side to alleviate gas, if stomach is torsed on
ex-ray, you will need to go in and remove spleen, and tack stomach...
NOTE- it is a waste of time to tack stomach without removing spleen, most
times in swissys it is the enlarged spleen that causes the stomach to torse and
if you have to do surgery anyway, I would remove spleen because that way you
know that all normal causes of torsion will be gone.
IF you leave spleen in, usually before end of dogs life, it will enlarge
sometime, and tear the stomach tack and you will have to go in for a second
surgery.
*On stomach issues, I would look at diet because many times if you are feeding
a diet that has corn, wheat, soy or milk products your dog may have a food
sensitivity that may be causing the upsets in the first place.
Dan
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Luna x Stevie Pups Have Arrived!
They're HERE! and they're really gorgeous!
Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) and Cathy Cooper's Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) have 9 gorgeous and healthy puppies that were born on March 16th through St. Patrick's Day, March 17th! NOX GSMD site for pix of mom, dad, and the puppies!
http://www.noxgsmd.com
Luna (Ch. Nox's Precious Cuba Libre) and Cathy Cooper's Stevie (Ch. Shadetree's Xango) have 9 gorgeous and healthy puppies that were born on March 16th through St. Patrick's Day, March 17th! NOX GSMD site for pix of mom, dad, and the puppies!
http://www.noxgsmd.com
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Dr. Jean Dodd's New Vaccine Protocol
From Dr. Jean Dodd...
Dr. Jean Dodds' Recommended Vaccination Schedule
Vaccine Initial 1st Annual Booster Re-Administration Interval Comments
Distemper (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only
None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 / 15 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Can have numerous side effects if given too young (< 8 weeks).
Parvovirus (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Rabies
(killed) 24 weeks or older At 1 year (give 3-4 weeks apart from Dist/Parvo booster) Killed 3 year rabies vaccine 3 yr. vaccine given as required by law in California (follow your state/provincial requirements) rabid animals may infect dogs.
Vaccines Not Recommended For Dogs
Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger Not recommended.
At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Corona Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 weeks of age.
2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
Leptospirosis Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
Lyme Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
Boretella
(Intranasal)
(killed) Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
Duration of immunity 6 months.
Giardia Not recommended
Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies
There are two types of vaccines currently available to veterinarians: modified-live vaccines and inactivated ("killed") vaccines.
Immunization Schedules
There is a great deal of controversy and confusion surrounding the appropriate immunization schedule, especially with the availability of modified-live vaccines and breeders who have experienced postvaccinal problems when using some of these vaccines. It is also important to not begin a vaccination program while maternal antibodies are still active and present in the puppy from the mother's colostrum. The maternal antibodies identify the vaccines as infectious organisms and destroy them before they can stimulate an immune response.
Many breeders and owners have sought a safer immunization program.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)
Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)
Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310/ 828-4804
fax: 310/ 828-8251
Note: This schedule is the one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It's a matter of professional judgment and choice. For breeds or families of dogs susceptible to or affected with immune dysfunction, immune-mediated disease, immune-reactions associated with vaccinations, or autoimmune endocrine disease (e.g., thyroiditis, Addison's or Cushing's disease, diabetes, etc.) the above protocol is recommended.
After 1 year, annually measure serum antibody titers against specific canine infectious agents such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially recommended for animals previously experiencing adverse vaccine reactions or breeds at higher risk for such reactions (e.g., Weimaraner, Akita, American Eskimo, Great Dane).
Another alternative to booster vaccinations is homeopathic nosodes. This option is considered an unconventional treatment that has not been scientifically proven to be efficacious. One controlled parvovirus nosode study did not adequately protect puppies under challenged conditions. However, data from Europe and clinical experience in North America support its use. If veterinarians choose to use homeopathic nosodes, their clients should be provided with an appropriate disclaimer and written informed consent should be obtained.
I use only killed 3 year rabies vaccine for adults and give it separated from other vaccines by 3-4 weeks. In some states, they may be able to give titer test result in lieu of booster.
I do NOT use Bordetella, corona virus, leptospirosis or Lyme vaccines unless these diseases are endemic in the local area pr specific kennel. Furthermore, the currently licensed leptospira bacterins do not contain the serovars causing the majority of clinical leptospirosis today.
I do NOT recommend vaccinating bitches during estrus, pregnancy or lactation.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
Dr. Jean Dodds' Recommended Vaccination Schedule
Vaccine Initial 1st Annual Booster Re-Administration Interval Comments
Distemper (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only
None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 / 15 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Can have numerous side effects if given too young (< 8 weeks).
Parvovirus (MLV)
(e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy) 9 weeks
12 weeks
16 - 20 weeks At 1 year MLV Distemper/ Parvovirus only None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Rabies
(killed) 24 weeks or older At 1 year (give 3-4 weeks apart from Dist/Parvo booster) Killed 3 year rabies vaccine 3 yr. vaccine given as required by law in California (follow your state/provincial requirements) rabid animals may infect dogs.
Vaccines Not Recommended For Dogs
Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger Not recommended.
At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
Corona Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 weeks of age.
2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
Leptospirosis Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
Lyme Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
Boretella
(Intranasal)
(killed) Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
Duration of immunity 6 months.
Giardia Not recommended
Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies
There are two types of vaccines currently available to veterinarians: modified-live vaccines and inactivated ("killed") vaccines.
Immunization Schedules
There is a great deal of controversy and confusion surrounding the appropriate immunization schedule, especially with the availability of modified-live vaccines and breeders who have experienced postvaccinal problems when using some of these vaccines. It is also important to not begin a vaccination program while maternal antibodies are still active and present in the puppy from the mother's colostrum. The maternal antibodies identify the vaccines as infectious organisms and destroy them before they can stimulate an immune response.
Many breeders and owners have sought a safer immunization program.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)
Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)
Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310/ 828-4804
fax: 310/ 828-8251
Note: This schedule is the one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It's a matter of professional judgment and choice. For breeds or families of dogs susceptible to or affected with immune dysfunction, immune-mediated disease, immune-reactions associated with vaccinations, or autoimmune endocrine disease (e.g., thyroiditis, Addison's or Cushing's disease, diabetes, etc.) the above protocol is recommended.
After 1 year, annually measure serum antibody titers against specific canine infectious agents such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially recommended for animals previously experiencing adverse vaccine reactions or breeds at higher risk for such reactions (e.g., Weimaraner, Akita, American Eskimo, Great Dane).
Another alternative to booster vaccinations is homeopathic nosodes. This option is considered an unconventional treatment that has not been scientifically proven to be efficacious. One controlled parvovirus nosode study did not adequately protect puppies under challenged conditions. However, data from Europe and clinical experience in North America support its use. If veterinarians choose to use homeopathic nosodes, their clients should be provided with an appropriate disclaimer and written informed consent should be obtained.
I use only killed 3 year rabies vaccine for adults and give it separated from other vaccines by 3-4 weeks. In some states, they may be able to give titer test result in lieu of booster.
I do NOT use Bordetella, corona virus, leptospirosis or Lyme vaccines unless these diseases are endemic in the local area pr specific kennel. Furthermore, the currently licensed leptospira bacterins do not contain the serovars causing the majority of clinical leptospirosis today.
I do NOT recommend vaccinating bitches during estrus, pregnancy or lactation.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
Thursday, October 02, 2008
The "Swissy Lick"
This is from Cathy Cooper's website http://www.shadetreegreaterswiss.com/....
The "Swissy Lick"
This is an entirely unscientific term to describe the sudden onset of frantic licking of anything in range such as carpet, bare floor, walls etc. and the indiscriminate eating of anything that can be swallowed such as grass, leaves, fiber from carpets etc. and gobbling up of air. It is obvious that the behavior is due to severe gastrointestinal discomfort. It sometimes can be alleviated with medications such as Digel, Gas-X or other gas and acid reducing remedies. Often, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting will help. What exactly causes the "Swissy Lick" is a matter of discussion among Swissy owners but there seems to be no single or definite factor responsible for this condition. Any number of theories have been offered, from exessive gas pressure to acid reflux to allergic reaction to a food substance. Some believe that it is a precursor to GDV but this cannot be clearly substantiated either as many Swissys who have had these licking episodes never went on to develop GDV. While the condition appears to affect primarily young dogs, it has also been reported in older Swissys. Often, young dogs eventually will outgrow the condition.
The "Swissy Lick"
This is an entirely unscientific term to describe the sudden onset of frantic licking of anything in range such as carpet, bare floor, walls etc. and the indiscriminate eating of anything that can be swallowed such as grass, leaves, fiber from carpets etc. and gobbling up of air. It is obvious that the behavior is due to severe gastrointestinal discomfort. It sometimes can be alleviated with medications such as Digel, Gas-X or other gas and acid reducing remedies. Often, hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting will help. What exactly causes the "Swissy Lick" is a matter of discussion among Swissy owners but there seems to be no single or definite factor responsible for this condition. Any number of theories have been offered, from exessive gas pressure to acid reflux to allergic reaction to a food substance. Some believe that it is a precursor to GDV but this cannot be clearly substantiated either as many Swissys who have had these licking episodes never went on to develop GDV. While the condition appears to affect primarily young dogs, it has also been reported in older Swissys. Often, young dogs eventually will outgrow the condition.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Mastitis also
Antibiotics for mom........
probiocin immediately for mom and pups (as the antibiotics will cause diarrhea for pups)
Lots of warm compresses......as hot as you can stand it.
Tape the nipple off so pups can't nurse on it (unlike human breastfeeding where they want us to pump to extract the infection and throw away the milk......or even let child nurse through the excruciatingly painful infection).
probiocin immediately for mom and pups (as the antibiotics will cause diarrhea for pups)
Lots of warm compresses......as hot as you can stand it.
Tape the nipple off so pups can't nurse on it (unlike human breastfeeding where they want us to pump to extract the infection and throw away the milk......or even let child nurse through the excruciatingly painful infection).
Mastitis
From Dan Campeau...
When you milk it out,,, if it still looks white I would continue to let largest pup milk it out every 4 hours to make sure you are releasing pressure and it will usually work itself out.
If the milk looks yellow or green or has blood in it then I would get a breast pump, milk the teat out several (4-5) times per day, put your bitch on amoxycilline for 2 weeks and tape it so pups cannot nurse from it. While bitch is on antibiotics I give pups 1-2 cc of vanilla yogurt everyday so they do not loose their beneficial gut bacteria.
*** When the milk goes back to white with no signs of blood then I would put bigger pups on it to to keep it milked out.
I usually feel the bitches underline every 4-6 hours when I bring mom back in from being outside to exercise,,, and if one teat starts feeling hard or hot I get the biggest pups to milk it out for next couple of feeding cycles and it usually will clear up on its own.
When you milk it out,,, if it still looks white I would continue to let largest pup milk it out every 4 hours to make sure you are releasing pressure and it will usually work itself out.
If the milk looks yellow or green or has blood in it then I would get a breast pump, milk the teat out several (4-5) times per day, put your bitch on amoxycilline for 2 weeks and tape it so pups cannot nurse from it. While bitch is on antibiotics I give pups 1-2 cc of vanilla yogurt everyday so they do not loose their beneficial gut bacteria.
*** When the milk goes back to white with no signs of blood then I would put bigger pups on it to to keep it milked out.
I usually feel the bitches underline every 4-6 hours when I bring mom back in from being outside to exercise,,, and if one teat starts feeling hard or hot I get the biggest pups to milk it out for next couple of feeding cycles and it usually will clear up on its own.
UTIs in Swissy Girls
From Pamela Kalupa
Our first Swissy bitch have bladder infections/uti's. She was on a regimen of antibiotics (amoxi, cephalexin, clavamox, and finally primor). Her uti's consisted of a lot of blood. We even did a cytocentesis. Which showed e-coli.
I'll bet that's what they're see if they send it out for a culture, if they did the cytocentesis. I've had pups (girls) that I placed, that had uti's as they were older. Our recommendation that was given by one of our vets that worked at my clinic was cranberry extract 325 mg. and wiping the vulva everytime she urinated with unscented/non alcohol baby wipes. Instead of cranberry extract, I like Solid Gold Berry Balance. Needless to say, it's a pain the butt. It did work. We also did this until she came into her first heat and haven't had a problem since and she'll be 8 yrs. old in October.
The other choice would be to find the bacteria. Give the antibiotic (remember certain ones sh ould NOT be given to growing pups). Add the cranberries/extract , o r something on that order. Do the baby wipes. And possibly continue on a low grade antibiotic (amoxicillin) until she comes into season which we have done with one of our pups with no ill side affects.
If it's just leaking urine, but no bladder infections -- HomeoPet "Leaks No More" has worked on one of our other bitches who would just run through the house urinating when she was pup. She came into season and was fine. Hasn't leaked yet.
Pam
On Sep 8, 2008, at 9:04 PM, Susan McClintick wrote:
I have a puppy owner that has a female puppy that is having a re-occurring UTI.
She told me that she had her potty trained for the most part and then notice she was dribbling while walking and licking herself. She took her to the vet, they gave her Clavamox for 10 days. Toward the end of the treatment she seemed better and was again not having any accidents in the house. Three days after the antibiotics was completed she started dribbling again. This time they did a clean sample and told her the infection was only in the bladder and gave her 3 weeks worth of Clavamox. Again she seemed well with the treatment and stopped dribbling. Three days after the antibiotics she started licking again and started to dribble. She did say she also threw up that day. It was just dog food, but has no t gotten sick again and seems to otherwise act normal. Today is the 5th day after the last treatment.
She is taking her back to the vet. I told her to ask if they did a culture to find out what was causing the infection. What kind of bacteria is it? I also told her to ask about maybe it being a kidney infection and possibly changing the antibiotic to something stronger incase the bacteria is resistant to the Clavamox.
Any suggestions? I've never had a bitch with a UTI so this is unknown territory to me. The puppy turned 5 months old on the 3rd of September. None of the other females in this litter seem to be having any issues of this sort.
Our first Swissy bitch have bladder infections/uti's. She was on a regimen of antibiotics (amoxi, cephalexin, clavamox, and finally primor). Her uti's consisted of a lot of blood. We even did a cytocentesis. Which showed e-coli.
I'll bet that's what they're see if they send it out for a culture, if they did the cytocentesis. I've had pups (girls) that I placed, that had uti's as they were older. Our recommendation that was given by one of our vets that worked at my clinic was cranberry extract 325 mg. and wiping the vulva everytime she urinated with unscented/non alcohol baby wipes. Instead of cranberry extract, I like Solid Gold Berry Balance. Needless to say, it's a pain the butt. It did work. We also did this until she came into her first heat and haven't had a problem since and she'll be 8 yrs. old in October.
The other choice would be to find the bacteria. Give the antibiotic (remember certain ones sh ould NOT be given to growing pups). Add the cranberries/extract , o r something on that order. Do the baby wipes. And possibly continue on a low grade antibiotic (amoxicillin) until she comes into season which we have done with one of our pups with no ill side affects.
If it's just leaking urine, but no bladder infections -- HomeoPet "Leaks No More" has worked on one of our other bitches who would just run through the house urinating when she was pup. She came into season and was fine. Hasn't leaked yet.
Pam
On Sep 8, 2008, at 9:04 PM, Susan McClintick wrote:
I have a puppy owner that has a female puppy that is having a re-occurring UTI.
She told me that she had her potty trained for the most part and then notice she was dribbling while walking and licking herself. She took her to the vet, they gave her Clavamox for 10 days. Toward the end of the treatment she seemed better and was again not having any accidents in the house. Three days after the antibiotics was completed she started dribbling again. This time they did a clean sample and told her the infection was only in the bladder and gave her 3 weeks worth of Clavamox. Again she seemed well with the treatment and stopped dribbling. Three days after the antibiotics she started licking again and started to dribble. She did say she also threw up that day. It was just dog food, but has no t gotten sick again and seems to otherwise act normal. Today is the 5th day after the last treatment.
She is taking her back to the vet. I told her to ask if they did a culture to find out what was causing the infection. What kind of bacteria is it? I also told her to ask about maybe it being a kidney infection and possibly changing the antibiotic to something stronger incase the bacteria is resistant to the Clavamox.
Any suggestions? I've never had a bitch with a UTI so this is unknown territory to me. The puppy turned 5 months old on the 3rd of September. None of the other females in this litter seem to be having any issues of this sort.
About Pano in Young Swissys
From Sharyl Mayhew...
In this order: 1. Cage rest, 2. LEASH WALK ONLY and 3. minimal use of pain relievers. Rimadyl is your best bet because unlike previcox and derramax and some of the others it helps keep the joint fluid constant better than the rest. Please don't use bute in a young growing dog.
Use the NSAID to make them comfortable, NOT to make them sound for competition or play. Cage rest, Rimadyl, leash walk only. Repeat again and again and no dog classes, no shows, no playing with the neighbor's dog. Cage rest, rimadyl, leash walk only maybe for a month or so!!!
Pano is a growing dog problem, keep them still, feed them light and let them grow out of it. The ortho specialists lately (last 10 years or so) suggest feeding a low protein/fat food such as....get this... PEDIGREE:) Go figure. Get her off of puppy or any high-end diet immediately, feed reduced portions and keep her a lean as possible until she's past this. Pedigree regular, not puppy or lamb or any other variety, just the plain jane, Costco yellow bag.
Cage rest, leash walking only and strongly Consider Adequan injections to protect the growing joints while the dog is intermittently lame. Adequan equine only (has no preservatives-the canine version does and can cause reactions in some dogs). Call Dr. Jackson 703-385-1054 and he can talk to another vet for them. We give Adequan 2cc IM every 4 days for 8 injections and sometimes monthly boosters of it thereafter until the dog is out of the age frame for pano.
****This does not help with pano in any way***. BUT, it does absolutely protect and strengthen the actual synovial joints (i.e. ball and socket joints like hip, elbow, shoulder, hocks, jaw etc.) so that the intermittant limping doesn't cause permanent damage in a young, growing, goofy, crash and burn, giant breed dog.
Bicepital tendinitis is also common in large/giant breeds, all of the above will help with that too. The most important course of treatment is CAGE REST, LEASH WALK ONLY and let them heal. No packing, no carting, no showing, no training. Work instead on quiet activities, kong chewing olympics, "quiet" time in the crate or on a leash, calm behavior on command and don't try to get back into competition too soon, the shows will still be there for her when she's sound and painfree and more mature and more competitive.
Sharyl
In this order: 1. Cage rest, 2. LEASH WALK ONLY and 3. minimal use of pain relievers. Rimadyl is your best bet because unlike previcox and derramax and some of the others it helps keep the joint fluid constant better than the rest. Please don't use bute in a young growing dog.
Use the NSAID to make them comfortable, NOT to make them sound for competition or play. Cage rest, Rimadyl, leash walk only. Repeat again and again and no dog classes, no shows, no playing with the neighbor's dog. Cage rest, rimadyl, leash walk only maybe for a month or so!!!
Pano is a growing dog problem, keep them still, feed them light and let them grow out of it. The ortho specialists lately (last 10 years or so) suggest feeding a low protein/fat food such as....get this... PEDIGREE:) Go figure. Get her off of puppy or any high-end diet immediately, feed reduced portions and keep her a lean as possible until she's past this. Pedigree regular, not puppy or lamb or any other variety, just the plain jane, Costco yellow bag.
Cage rest, leash walking only and strongly Consider Adequan injections to protect the growing joints while the dog is intermittently lame. Adequan equine only (has no preservatives-the canine version does and can cause reactions in some dogs). Call Dr. Jackson 703-385-1054 and he can talk to another vet for them. We give Adequan 2cc IM every 4 days for 8 injections and sometimes monthly boosters of it thereafter until the dog is out of the age frame for pano.
****This does not help with pano in any way***. BUT, it does absolutely protect and strengthen the actual synovial joints (i.e. ball and socket joints like hip, elbow, shoulder, hocks, jaw etc.) so that the intermittant limping doesn't cause permanent damage in a young, growing, goofy, crash and burn, giant breed dog.
Bicepital tendinitis is also common in large/giant breeds, all of the above will help with that too. The most important course of treatment is CAGE REST, LEASH WALK ONLY and let them heal. No packing, no carting, no showing, no training. Work instead on quiet activities, kong chewing olympics, "quiet" time in the crate or on a leash, calm behavior on command and don't try to get back into competition too soon, the shows will still be there for her when she's sound and painfree and more mature and more competitive.
Sharyl
Leaking Pups
From Dan Campeau...
When I have a leaking pup, First thing I rule out is a Bladder or Kidney infection. If yes, then treat with Antibiotics and then follow up with Dried Cranberry leaf extract to stop recuring infections. Once infection is gone, leaking usually stops.
_______________________
If it is NOT an infection, I assume it is a hormonal issue that will resolve itself when the bitch goes through her first heat cycle. I have never had a pup that did not get better on their own when they went through first heat cycle.
The only thing I would do as a prophlactic measure on a bitch that shows negative on an infection is to give her Cranberry leaf extract so they do not develop an infection.
I do not treat these girls with any other drugs or supplements,,, I just manage the issue judisciously and know that it is a temporary condition. Put pup in an area that is easily cleaned, wash more blankets, keep them outside during the day if possible.
__________________________________________
I NEVER spay my girls before their first heat cycle , If you spay a swissy pup that is NOT leaking presently, they will start as you throw their systems into a state of instant menopause.
In most cases of girls that do NOT have a history of leaking, you will avoid many leaking issues if you wait until your girl has gone through at least one heat cycle.
Most of the leaking issues not attributed to infections are hormonal in nature and will get better with age and going through at least ONE heat cycle.
I recently had a leaking pup that I did a surgery on that is common in humans but not common in dogs and that was a hysterectomy only taking out the Uterus. I left the ovaries in so she would not have to be on replacement hormone therapy or major drugs to control leaking the rest of her life. I will continue to monitor her and let you know how it goes. She is making a wonderful pet and companion and is NOT leaking now.
When I have a leaking pup, First thing I rule out is a Bladder or Kidney infection. If yes, then treat with Antibiotics and then follow up with Dried Cranberry leaf extract to stop recuring infections. Once infection is gone, leaking usually stops.
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If it is NOT an infection, I assume it is a hormonal issue that will resolve itself when the bitch goes through her first heat cycle. I have never had a pup that did not get better on their own when they went through first heat cycle.
The only thing I would do as a prophlactic measure on a bitch that shows negative on an infection is to give her Cranberry leaf extract so they do not develop an infection.
I do not treat these girls with any other drugs or supplements,,, I just manage the issue judisciously and know that it is a temporary condition. Put pup in an area that is easily cleaned, wash more blankets, keep them outside during the day if possible.
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I NEVER spay my girls before their first heat cycle , If you spay a swissy pup that is NOT leaking presently, they will start as you throw their systems into a state of instant menopause.
In most cases of girls that do NOT have a history of leaking, you will avoid many leaking issues if you wait until your girl has gone through at least one heat cycle.
Most of the leaking issues not attributed to infections are hormonal in nature and will get better with age and going through at least ONE heat cycle.
I recently had a leaking pup that I did a surgery on that is common in humans but not common in dogs and that was a hysterectomy only taking out the Uterus. I left the ovaries in so she would not have to be on replacement hormone therapy or major drugs to control leaking the rest of her life. I will continue to monitor her and let you know how it goes. She is making a wonderful pet and companion and is NOT leaking now.
Friday, March 16, 2007
Spaying and Neutering Your Swissy: Read On!
On my breeder's list and Swissy lists, a lot of emails have been exchanged about early spay and neuters. The gist of the exchanges I've forwarded to my web master to post as blogs. Julianne Wilson and Cathy Cooper and Brigitte Rhinehart, are 3 breeders that have been in this breed long enough to know the couple that brought Swissies to the US (as that was their foundation dogs in 1968). Breeders that have been around 20+ years are the "encyclopedias" that drive many of my decisions......so, with all do respect, here's a couple more opinions on the topics of early spay/neuter. The Summons family originated this breed in the late 60's and that is who Julianne Wilson in KY is referring to in her post below.
Happy reading.
Colleen
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Subject: early spay and mammary cancer
So here are the 'facts' on spaying early in regards to mammary cancer.
Spaying before 1st heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by over 99%.
However, spaying after only 1 heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by about 70% (depending on what study you read). Spaying after 2 reduces incidency by 25 %, and spaying after 2 or 3 cycles has no effect on incidence of mammary cancer.
Having said that, overall incidence of mammary cancer is estimated at 0.2% in the whole population. It is the most common cancer in female dogs, but in dogs, 50% are benign. Average age for onset of mammary tumors is 10-12 years old (so keep this in mind when advising swissy owners).
Additionally, one recent study has shown that early spay increases the incidence of lymphoma (can't find the paper to say exactly how much though, sorry). So as long as they spay before 2nd heat cycle I think waiting is totally reasonable. They still get a major protective effect, and incidence only goes up to 0.3%. I have removed 3 mammary cancers in the last year, all of which were dogs under 40 pounds. 2 were benign, the other was not but good prognosis since it was removed early. I see females every week with 'juvenile vulva' syndrome...recurrent UTI's and major issues. If not spaying your dog early was a death sentence via mammary cancer, my bitch would have been spayed long before now. My bitch is only 3 and each month when I give her heartworm preventive I roll her over and examine her... its just part of our routine. As long as puppy people know there are 2 sides to it...there's no reason why they can't make this decision (with your help). Obviously I am not a
big fan of hard and fast "rules" on how to treat a dog, when there are many factors that go into any medical decision. Having a large breed dog means you have increased risk of bone cancer, bloat, splenic tumors, etc etc. But you don't get a small breed dog because they have increased incidence of dental issues, endocardiosis, diabetes, patella luxation, etc etc. Males get prostatic problems and perianal tumors. Females get mammary tumors and pyometra....In order to avoid all predisposing problems, get a CAT for goodness sakes (they have issues too, surprise surprise). You can go on and on about how the genetics of any dog will predispose them to one problem or another, but you CANNOT make a decision on any one factor! GRRR! If your dog gets a mammary tumor, you have it removed ASAP...just like if they got a mast cell tumor you'd remove that ASAP. If any vet on the planet could predict what will happen to a dog and what they'll die from and at what age...they'd be a
billionaire.
Sorry about that, just a rant from one vet who thinks that many other vets have let pet overpopulation problems give them tunnel vision. I obviously have strong opinions on the subject, feel free to forward this to any puppy people being given a hard time.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Martin (the DVM with an intact bitch, despite having been ridiculed many times by other vets for it, and even nicknamed the 'dog pimp' by a radiologist in vet school)
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Subject: Re: early spay and mammary cancer
So i am not a veterinarian but have enjoyed Swissys in our family since
1988. Having been advised by Gretel Summons early on NOT to spay before the bitch
was 15 months old., preferably 24 months---also NOT to neuter a male before
18 months, preferably 24 moths. All this for two good reasons :
the females will almost always be incontinent when spayed before their
hormones are balanced and the males will likely not have majestic heads if
neutered before their hormones are established.
If i have a dog that does not pass health clearances, it is spayed or
neutered but that is after the 24 month time period. Otherwise, i spay and neuter
at 6 or 7 yrs, both sexes. No incontinent girls in all these years , and no
incidences of mammary cancer.
When we do raise a litter we advise all families taking a Swissy home, to
abide by the same advice we got from Gretel. We have a wonderful relationship
with our vets--we discuss advice and opinions and experiences and the
conclusion is : if it isn't broken, don't need to fix it. So we keep on the path
that offers the smoothest healthiest ground for our Swissys.
We once purchased a lovely English Springer who had been spayed at 7
months: she had mammary cancer 8 times in the 13 years she lived. Don't want to
even think about the odds on that.
Blessings
Happy reading.
Colleen
------------------------------
Subject: early spay and mammary cancer
So here are the 'facts' on spaying early in regards to mammary cancer.
Spaying before 1st heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by over 99%.
However, spaying after only 1 heat cycle reduces mammary cancer by about 70% (depending on what study you read). Spaying after 2 reduces incidency by 25 %, and spaying after 2 or 3 cycles has no effect on incidence of mammary cancer.
Having said that, overall incidence of mammary cancer is estimated at 0.2% in the whole population. It is the most common cancer in female dogs, but in dogs, 50% are benign. Average age for onset of mammary tumors is 10-12 years old (so keep this in mind when advising swissy owners).
Additionally, one recent study has shown that early spay increases the incidence of lymphoma (can't find the paper to say exactly how much though, sorry). So as long as they spay before 2nd heat cycle I think waiting is totally reasonable. They still get a major protective effect, and incidence only goes up to 0.3%. I have removed 3 mammary cancers in the last year, all of which were dogs under 40 pounds. 2 were benign, the other was not but good prognosis since it was removed early. I see females every week with 'juvenile vulva' syndrome...recurrent UTI's and major issues. If not spaying your dog early was a death sentence via mammary cancer, my bitch would have been spayed long before now. My bitch is only 3 and each month when I give her heartworm preventive I roll her over and examine her... its just part of our routine. As long as puppy people know there are 2 sides to it...there's no reason why they can't make this decision (with your help). Obviously I am not a
big fan of hard and fast "rules" on how to treat a dog, when there are many factors that go into any medical decision. Having a large breed dog means you have increased risk of bone cancer, bloat, splenic tumors, etc etc. But you don't get a small breed dog because they have increased incidence of dental issues, endocardiosis, diabetes, patella luxation, etc etc. Males get prostatic problems and perianal tumors. Females get mammary tumors and pyometra....In order to avoid all predisposing problems, get a CAT for goodness sakes (they have issues too, surprise surprise). You can go on and on about how the genetics of any dog will predispose them to one problem or another, but you CANNOT make a decision on any one factor! GRRR! If your dog gets a mammary tumor, you have it removed ASAP...just like if they got a mast cell tumor you'd remove that ASAP. If any vet on the planet could predict what will happen to a dog and what they'll die from and at what age...they'd be a
billionaire.
Sorry about that, just a rant from one vet who thinks that many other vets have let pet overpopulation problems give them tunnel vision. I obviously have strong opinions on the subject, feel free to forward this to any puppy people being given a hard time.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Martin (the DVM with an intact bitch, despite having been ridiculed many times by other vets for it, and even nicknamed the 'dog pimp' by a radiologist in vet school)
````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Subject: Re: early spay and mammary cancer
So i am not a veterinarian but have enjoyed Swissys in our family since
1988. Having been advised by Gretel Summons early on NOT to spay before the bitch
was 15 months old., preferably 24 months---also NOT to neuter a male before
18 months, preferably 24 moths. All this for two good reasons :
the females will almost always be incontinent when spayed before their
hormones are balanced and the males will likely not have majestic heads if
neutered before their hormones are established.
If i have a dog that does not pass health clearances, it is spayed or
neutered but that is after the 24 month time period. Otherwise, i spay and neuter
at 6 or 7 yrs, both sexes. No incontinent girls in all these years , and no
incidences of mammary cancer.
When we do raise a litter we advise all families taking a Swissy home, to
abide by the same advice we got from Gretel. We have a wonderful relationship
with our vets--we discuss advice and opinions and experiences and the
conclusion is : if it isn't broken, don't need to fix it. So we keep on the path
that offers the smoothest healthiest ground for our Swissys.
We once purchased a lovely English Springer who had been spayed at 7
months: she had mammary cancer 8 times in the 13 years she lived. Don't want to
even think about the odds on that.
Blessings
Too Early to Neuter Your Swissy?
This is a piece by Cathy Cooper, of Shadetree Swissys, one of the most respected women involved with the Swissy breed:
Spaying and Neutering
Spaying and Neutering
It is imperative that you do not spay your female GSMD before she is a minimum of 12 months old. GSMD that are spayed at any early age seem to have a great tendency towards incontinence. It is preferable to wait until she has gone through a heat cycle. I realize that there will be some inconvenience related to letting her go through a heat cycle, but GSMD that have gone through a heat cycle seem to be much less prone to incontinence than those who have not. Many “pet” vets will try to convince you that it is in your puppy’s best interest to spay earlier. It is true that dogs that go through a heat cycle have a slightly increased risk of mammary tumors (maybe 5%). It is also true that a Swissy spayed at a young age may be as much as 40% more likely to develop incontinence. It is up to you to weigh the risk. It is not your vet who will be living with a 100 lb dog that leaks urine. The truth be known, most vets want to spay at an early age because it is much easier surgery. You need to stand your ground on this issue.
Males are not affected with the incontinence issue, but you may want to wait until your male is 12 months or older as well. Males that are neutered earlier tend towards excessive long bone growth and tend to end up slightly “bitchy” looking. Swissys are very slow maturing and waiting until a year old does not have any ill effects.
Monday, January 22, 2007
Food Guarding
This is from an exchange I had with a puppy owner regarding Food Guarding...
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Sounds like you worked through the food thing on your own. Maybe I can do a better job as a breeder in articulating to my puppy families to ALWAYS feed them from your hand, throughout their lives, so they don't feel they have to "guard" their food. I also implement the sit and wait to be released for ALL my dogs once they are out of the "litter" environment. I was taught the philosophy that nothing is free, everything they do they have to earn by doing a command/behavior. So, when I have scraps (and Luna loves vegetable, bananas, etc...) I make Luna do her sit, or down, or sit stay, or down stay. She thinks it's fun because she's getting food and all Swissies are food driven. In the process, she's learning basic commands. She's not 100% on the down by any stretch, but she's perfected her sit! I also spend the first entire year of their life feeding them meals every now and then entirely from my hand. I'll sit in the living room with their food bowl and make them eat every morsel of the kibble out of my hand, and we all take turns. By the time they are a year old, we are all gods and godesses to them because they regard their "human" pack as their source of food. I've NEVER witnessed and/or experienced a Swissy that was food aggressive or growls. If I did, I think quite honestly, I'd knock the shit out of them and they wouldn't know what hit them. I have witnessed them being growly towards each other when they eat all together and someone finishes early and comes to see if there is any extra in the bowl. I don't discourage dog to dog vocalzing, ever, as it always maintains who is who in the pack and pecking order. I've never had one have to reprimand the other to "go away when I'm eating" except to stop chewing and growl. Luna figured out damn quick not to bother Rixey, her mother, when Rixey is eating. As puppies they all try to eat her food while she's eating and she'll absolutely demolish them and pin them down until they scream bloody murder. There's never any bite wounds and never any blood drawn, and they only have to get nailed once or twice to realize....."don't try to get mom's food while she's eating." I've learned a lot of my dicipline boundaries from watching all my mothers discipline their own brood. It's amazing how firm they are, without injuring. They instill a sense of respect in their own puppies. Sorry to hear about Boone growling, but it's imperative that you do some of the hand feeding, often, to make sure that never escalates into the dog on the show. I haven't seen the episode, but Cab's owner taped it for me.
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Sounds like you worked through the food thing on your own. Maybe I can do a better job as a breeder in articulating to my puppy families to ALWAYS feed them from your hand, throughout their lives, so they don't feel they have to "guard" their food. I also implement the sit and wait to be released for ALL my dogs once they are out of the "litter" environment. I was taught the philosophy that nothing is free, everything they do they have to earn by doing a command/behavior. So, when I have scraps (and Luna loves vegetable, bananas, etc...) I make Luna do her sit, or down, or sit stay, or down stay. She thinks it's fun because she's getting food and all Swissies are food driven. In the process, she's learning basic commands. She's not 100% on the down by any stretch, but she's perfected her sit! I also spend the first entire year of their life feeding them meals every now and then entirely from my hand. I'll sit in the living room with their food bowl and make them eat every morsel of the kibble out of my hand, and we all take turns. By the time they are a year old, we are all gods and godesses to them because they regard their "human" pack as their source of food. I've NEVER witnessed and/or experienced a Swissy that was food aggressive or growls. If I did, I think quite honestly, I'd knock the shit out of them and they wouldn't know what hit them. I have witnessed them being growly towards each other when they eat all together and someone finishes early and comes to see if there is any extra in the bowl. I don't discourage dog to dog vocalzing, ever, as it always maintains who is who in the pack and pecking order. I've never had one have to reprimand the other to "go away when I'm eating" except to stop chewing and growl. Luna figured out damn quick not to bother Rixey, her mother, when Rixey is eating. As puppies they all try to eat her food while she's eating and she'll absolutely demolish them and pin them down until they scream bloody murder. There's never any bite wounds and never any blood drawn, and they only have to get nailed once or twice to realize....."don't try to get mom's food while she's eating." I've learned a lot of my dicipline boundaries from watching all my mothers discipline their own brood. It's amazing how firm they are, without injuring. They instill a sense of respect in their own puppies. Sorry to hear about Boone growling, but it's imperative that you do some of the hand feeding, often, to make sure that never escalates into the dog on the show. I haven't seen the episode, but Cab's owner taped it for me.
Saturday, January 06, 2007
Spaying your Swissy girl and urinary incontinence
This is an issue of WHEN is the BEST time, not when is the right time. You can take your female in to spay her tomorrow if you'd like. This issue of spaying a Swiss Mountain Dog bitch PRIOR to their first heat cycle is an issue of the EXTREMLY HIGH INCIDENCE of urinary incontinece in THIS breed for all those owners and veterinarians across the country who elected to spay a Swissy female prior to their first heat cycle. No one has done any formal research on this, and someone should.....we're in the midst of data and documentation on our bigger issues......bloat, epilepsy, OCD, etc....Not only do the frequent episodes of vaginitis and UTI's in Swissy females reduce (and if not almost disappear after the onset of the first heat cycle), the incidence of incontinence throughout life also reduces. I don't want to come across as being rude, but I would just like you and your vet to also seek the opinions of the following doctors that have a lot of experience with THIS breed (Dr. Greg Svoboda, Dr. Jackson, and Drs. Beamer or Dr. Byrd) you run the risk of Aggie developing the urinary incontinence. If after consulting with these doctors they say, "what the hell, spay the dog now," then so much for the anecdotal evidence that nobody has mustered the energy or time to formalize in a documented research study yet (it will happen, it will be someone's thesis or graduate research one day).
I'm emotionally driven and feel so strongly about this after my own personal experiences with Julee and her progeny, that I only needed to be burned once to understand what others have always advised me for years, I didn't heed myself. Do what you may, I'll be here to support you regardless of the outcome, but I feel better knowing that I did the very best I could to convince you and ALL my female companion puppies I place (which is better than 90% of the pups I produce) to STRONGLY ENCOURAGE owners to push the "envelope" to the first heat cycle. Also, know that you have your own female who has developed a UTI, a full sibling that has developed a UTI (Gem), a full sibling that possibly is having some difficulty concentrating urine (Luna) and a half-sibling who is incontinent after a spay at 12 months and was completely continent for the 12 months prior to the spay........all as cards stacked against you genetically. My Julee, who developed her incontinence after 3 litters and being spay at 5 1/2 months, more than likely experienced what they call estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence (but this can happen to bitches spay at any age and is usually treated with either diethylstilbestrol, DES, or phenylpropanolamine, Proin, which act to improve the closure of sphincters in the urinary tract). Estrogen-responsive incontinence's exact pathogenisis is unknown, but most bitches clinically present for "leaking" urine when relaxed and owners notice it's onset when they find urine spotting wherever the dog typically sleeps. This type of incontinence is more typical in bigger dogs, weighing more than 44 pounds, and in dogs spay at an early age. Julee's grandaughter, Mulligan, was spay at 7 months when she had her OCD lesion surgery and she was incontinent from her recovery on (prior to her surgery there was no incontinence). Lola, half-aunt to your Aggie, developed incontinence at 6 1/2 years of age, after having three litters and was never incontinent prior to that. Lola's full sister, Gretchen, was spay at 7 months and was incontinent from that day forward, they just turned 7. All the other littermates have reported no incontinence. Lola has produced two daughters, Mattie Rose in her first litter, and Nelli in her third litter, that both have estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence. Lola produced 24 puppies total in her lifetime. There's nothing more I can really say on this issue except that I've done the best I can to be thorough and provide every ounce of information I have against spaying prior to a first heat cycle. I suppose I always have the option to revise my contract to reflect my opinions on this issue. Thank God for the males, RIGHT?!? Don't worry, they come with their own set of baggage.
Talk to other breeders, other Swissy owners, the vets I know that have the MOST experience in this 100 mile radius with THIS breed, and whoever else you can before she goes under anesthesia......I'm totally confident that whatever the result, you'll handle.
I'm emotionally driven and feel so strongly about this after my own personal experiences with Julee and her progeny, that I only needed to be burned once to understand what others have always advised me for years, I didn't heed myself. Do what you may, I'll be here to support you regardless of the outcome, but I feel better knowing that I did the very best I could to convince you and ALL my female companion puppies I place (which is better than 90% of the pups I produce) to STRONGLY ENCOURAGE owners to push the "envelope" to the first heat cycle. Also, know that you have your own female who has developed a UTI, a full sibling that has developed a UTI (Gem), a full sibling that possibly is having some difficulty concentrating urine (Luna) and a half-sibling who is incontinent after a spay at 12 months and was completely continent for the 12 months prior to the spay........all as cards stacked against you genetically. My Julee, who developed her incontinence after 3 litters and being spay at 5 1/2 months, more than likely experienced what they call estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence (but this can happen to bitches spay at any age and is usually treated with either diethylstilbestrol, DES, or phenylpropanolamine, Proin, which act to improve the closure of sphincters in the urinary tract). Estrogen-responsive incontinence's exact pathogenisis is unknown, but most bitches clinically present for "leaking" urine when relaxed and owners notice it's onset when they find urine spotting wherever the dog typically sleeps. This type of incontinence is more typical in bigger dogs, weighing more than 44 pounds, and in dogs spay at an early age. Julee's grandaughter, Mulligan, was spay at 7 months when she had her OCD lesion surgery and she was incontinent from her recovery on (prior to her surgery there was no incontinence). Lola, half-aunt to your Aggie, developed incontinence at 6 1/2 years of age, after having three litters and was never incontinent prior to that. Lola's full sister, Gretchen, was spay at 7 months and was incontinent from that day forward, they just turned 7. All the other littermates have reported no incontinence. Lola has produced two daughters, Mattie Rose in her first litter, and Nelli in her third litter, that both have estrogen-responsive urinary incontinence. Lola produced 24 puppies total in her lifetime. There's nothing more I can really say on this issue except that I've done the best I can to be thorough and provide every ounce of information I have against spaying prior to a first heat cycle. I suppose I always have the option to revise my contract to reflect my opinions on this issue. Thank God for the males, RIGHT?!? Don't worry, they come with their own set of baggage.
Talk to other breeders, other Swissy owners, the vets I know that have the MOST experience in this 100 mile radius with THIS breed, and whoever else you can before she goes under anesthesia......I'm totally confident that whatever the result, you'll handle.
Saturday, September 02, 2006
Friday, August 25, 2006
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